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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    32

    Default Do you need to "load up" a brand new oil stone?

    Hello everyone,

    A sharpening newbie here so I apologise in advance if this is a noob question but one which I have googled and searched for on here with no luck. I just purchased the Stanley sharpening pack which includes stone, jig and a tiny bottle of oil and started to sharpen my chisels.

    Now my questions is, do you need to load up a new stone with a heap of oil? I used nearly the whole bottle as it just sucked into the stone after a few stokes of the chisel. It still looks relatively dry now.

    Also, do people store their stone in oil? Or once loaded does it stay inside the stone? I see people make boxes for their oil stones and wonder if the oil would seep out of the stone! It just seemed to me that I used an excessive amount of oil but I needed to in order to keep the stone lubricated and cutting.
    Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks
    Nick

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    4,475

    Default

    Yes you should soak a new stone in oil at least over night, then leave it on some newspaper to let the excess oil drain off, then you can make a box for it, the amount of oil that drains off won't damage the timber it is part of the process that the box over time will become quite soaked on the inside with oil have a look at any oilstone and box that has been in use for years and you will see exactly that. After each use wipe the excess oil from you stone with clean (" cleanish" ) rag

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    67

    Default

    Oh for sure.
    Although I mainly use a diamond sharpener nowadays, when I did use an oil stone, I put the new stone in a tub of oil (at the time I only had unused engine oil) overnight while I made a hardwood case for it. I figured the oil wouldn't ruin the timber case so that became the home for it.

    The case was made in 2 halves, mortised both pieces then joined with a piano hinges and brass clasp. When I opened it the stone could be used either way.
    Depending on when I used the stone, I added more oil or sharpened as it was.
    I guess too much oil or not enough oil wasn't good for the stone or the tool being sharpened.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    For oil stones, I have two, no-name, double-grit stones from the local hardware store. I still don't know how much oil they can absorb! Have a squeeze bottle of nice 5W40 engine oil. I use them only when a carving gouge is so badly damaged that I have to square off the end, just beyond the damage, and reform the entire bevel.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    At the very least, I could have tried to answer the question = 0/10 marks.
    The oil is the vehicle to suspend and carry away the swarf. If it soaks into the stone, fine swarf stone and metal particles go with it. So, as mucky as it may be, the above pre-soaking suggestions are good ones. It's the open abrasive surface which is meant to do the job.

    When I'm done, I add lots of fresh oil, bit of a scrub with a metal bristle brush and lots of paper towel to lift the rubbish.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    32

    Default

    Thanks for the replies everyone.

    Looks like I will have a use for that 30cm off cut from my ironbark structural feature beam we put up last year. I've been wondering what to do with it!

    Cheers
    Nick

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