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30th August 2013, 02:18 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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There is an American grit grading standard, as there is a Japanese standard and a European standard. None of them is related to the metric system at all and they differ from eachother. Grit size graded in metric terms would make sense to anyone on the planet with half a wit to be concerned. What is a 12,000 grit Shapton? I can get there with chromium oxide (green) on crackerbox cardboard. I win.
I have spools and spools of 50,000 grit iron oxide for honing. You might recall that it used to be known as magnetic recording tape.
The only thing which can possibly matter = you pick a sharpening system and stay with it to learn it. You get the edges that you need? Fine. My systems are no better nor no worse than yours. Instead of a simple straight edge like a plane blade, can you put a "carving sharp" edge on a new razor blade?
Then, just for fun, learn to put a carving sharp edge on a double-bevelled, crooked carving knife. It is taking me some time to learn to do this consistently.
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30th August 2013 02:18 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st August 2013, 08:20 PM #17Taking a break
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1st September 2013, 12:01 AM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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1st September 2013, 12:19 AM #19Taking a break
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1st September 2013, 01:24 AM #20Hewer of wood
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FWIW I've found that with the same or similar nominal equiv. grit rating, when you add speed (wheel or belt) the abrasive cuts finer.
Cheers, Ern
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1st September 2013, 01:32 AM #21GOLD MEMBER
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Quite all right. I'm sure that we would all agree that a beginner faces a stunning financial shock for ancillary items like sharpening & honing gear. One dang thing after another. Over a decade+, the pile may look impressive.
In the meantime, there are expedient if not simplistic means to an end.
I'm a wood carver, not a maker of fine furniture. The sizes and shapes of my tools are really diverse.
I've been carving more and more with crooked knives.
Just a year or so ago, I started to do a lot of spokeshave work.
I needed bigger, wider and much, much flatter (!!) tune-up gear.
Very fine automotive finishing papers and the cardboard on a flat support have more than economic merit.
I got lucky in June and scored a 4" x 30" offcut from a polished stone countertop company.
I can't recall what they are but if you look in the Lee Valley online catalog,
they do list metric grit sizes for their fine (wet & dry) sandpapers.
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1st September 2013, 10:16 AM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jan 2004
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Your right about the cost RV. One thing you keep mentioning is finding a system and stick with it until you learn it! That is a great place to start as done right, the super cheap option with WD paper and stropping compound can get you the same results as a system involving individual and costly stones.
My first system was a carpenters belt sander, one 1200 eze lap diamond stone and a hand paddle strop.
I still love the slow system of sharpening but now I want a brilliant edge quickly. Actually, the biggest step I have learnt as I got better at sharpening is how to keep an edge sharp for a longer period of time.
Anyway, I'm off to the hospital to pick up the best present a first time father can get on Fathers Day! A new 3.1kg shed mate!
I have no idea how I'm going to 'child proof' my workshop but I'm in the process of sorting out which one of my 7 workbench stations I am going to set aside just for him! I'm feeling a bit chuffed really!
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1st September 2013, 12:37 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Congratulations, Ben Dono! All Hail the new Dad!
If all goes according to plan(?) I will be a first time Grandfather and for twins, end of October.
I've accused my SIL of shooting both barrels at once. What a way to start a family.
It's still late summer here. Garden produce coming on fast.
Apples that nobody knows what to do with.
I run a power crusher but everybody expects a press as well.
Design is laid out on the table. Never seen my grapes come on so fast.
Usually color up before the end of Sept, not the beginning!
I hate like Hello to stand up on a ladder at -10C picking, bare-handed.
Plus, upland game bird season opens tomorrow for 10 weeks.
If it flies, it dies. I expect to go out, maybe 20-30 times.
= =
Back to sharpening. You've just hit the nail on the head = every individual's
process goes through a series of iterations. Whatever it is, pick one and learn it.
Then change one thing at a time. Gotta find a pic of my crooked knife set up.
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6th September 2013, 08:46 AM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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Good on you RV! Twins is an exciting was to start it all off! Grandparents become extra important when twins come around! They are lucky to have you around!
I'm really lucky as my Mum retired about a year ago and moved up to the farm with us. My Wife and Mum are getting along famously now (a little rocky to begin with) but grandparents just know everything about kids! They also know how to tell the new mums not to panic and that they are doing just fine! Mum was a Nurse, midwife and a paramedic for premmi babies so we have it a bit easier.
The firearm debate is warming up here in OZ at the moment. It's a bit silly really. I can't say I have met a shooter in 30yrs hunting that went for anything another than introduced feral animals. That's another topic!
Best of luck RV! Let's hope there is a new (or two) future workshop buddies coming along next month for you!
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6th September 2013, 10:31 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks, Ben. The grandkids will certainly be an experience for us all. Fortunately, my D1 & D2 live not far from eachother.
Back to sharpening. Here are all 9 of my crooked knives plus the sharpening/honing gear. The white base slab of (faux?) stone countertop is really flat and weighs in at maybe 6kg. For both the flat bottoms and curved bevels on top, I've settled down to 800 grit (if I have to) then 1500 then chrome green. The dog-leg handle on the planer knife is 45cm long.
The Mora #171 Equus hook knives are the two pairs on the right. Rock & Roll! I have loosened those silly little cutlery rivets. Gentle taps with a drift punch to snug them up again.
The planer was a Mora #188 in a past life. The 4 with the square handles are the blades from Lee Valley.
I bring all this up because either the bevel was wrong (30 degrees) or the dang blades were not carving sharp. Fine with me. I bought it, I decide what bevel angle I need for what I carve. Thus, I have included the chalked-up chainsaw file (skinny white rod, black handle). Quite simply and quickly, I carved those blades down to a rough 12 degrees then spent time refining the edges. The chalk is crucial to keeping the file cutting with its edge. No metal gets bunged up in the file grooves. AND, don't forget to stop at the end of the file stroke, pick it up, come back and go again = files don't work well in reverse and it upsets the edges, too!
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