Thread: Oil stone grinding wheel

Hi Bob

Perhaps you need a hi-fi forum!

Dress oils stones with diamond stones. Oil? Lots of choices .... HD40?

I wonder if you could make a couple of thin cast iron (or vinyl) laps and imbed diamond paste?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Bob

Perhaps you need a hi-fi forum!

Yes it has already been mistaken for a this.

Dress oils stones with diamond stones. Oil? Lots of choices .... HD40?

Thanks

I wonder if you could make a couple of thin cast iron (or vinyl) laps and imbed diamond paste?

That is a possibility.

Any suggestions for washing the gunk out - I guess dressing with a diamond plate with the oil running might help?

Any suggestions for washing the gunk out ...

I hear the dishwasher works well. Mind you, this could have repercussions at home!

Regards from Perth

Derek

This may help

Originally Posted by NCArcher

This may help

Fantastic - that should do the trick nicely.

Well we finally got this machine up and running.

One problem we had was even though the oil is very goopy the oil would drop off the delivery tube and hit the stone and spray off all over the place.

We looked at all sorts of ways of slowing down the rotation and even considered putting a VFD onto the motor but then I suggested a galv sheetmetal splash guard like this.
The guard is only needed until the stone gets fully oiled up and then the splashing and spraying stops and the guard can be removed.

It's nice old piece of kit Bob! I would not kick it out of my workshop that's for sure. they don't make anything like that anymore!

The splash guard was a good solution.

I reckon most sharpening equipment can benefit from a VFD. If the stone proves hard to replace, another good mod would be quick change thin disks. Diamond lapping plates, abrasive papers, honing plates. Much like a lot of the modern sharpeners...I think the WS3000?

Me personally, the oil would bug me. I don't mind it at all when I'm working with machinery but when I'm WW, I have a hard enough time keeping everything clean and un contaminated as it is!

Originally Posted by Ben Dono

It's nice old piece of kit Bob! I would not kick it out of my workshop that's for sure. they don't make anything like that anymore!

The splash guard was a good solution.

I reckon most sharpening equipment can benefit from a VFD. If the stone proves hard to replace, another good mod would be quick change thin disks. Diamond lapping plates, abrasive papers, honing plates. Much like a lot of the modern sharpeners...I think the WS3000?

Me personally, the oil would bug me. I don't mind it at all when I'm working with machinery but when I'm WW, I have a hard enough time keeping everything clean and un contaminated as it is!

I thought that as well when I saw the oil flying off but once the stone was fully oiled there was no splashing/spraying off the rotating stone, it sort of dribbled off the edge. The amount of oil that gets onto a blade is relatively small, just along the edge being sharpened which is easily wiped off

just a thought, would chainsaw bar oil be any good as far as the throwing of oil is concerned. I personally like thin oils for stones but that is hand sharpening not a machine

Originally Posted by shedbound

just a thought, would chainsaw bar oil be any good as far as the throwing of oil is concerned. I personally like thin oils for stones but that is hand sharpening not a machine

I thought of that but I think it needs to be thinner that that. Anyway it's only a problem while to stone is taking up the oil. The instructions say to run the stone and pump until the stone is covered in a layer of oil which takes about a minute. After that there is no spraying as the oil seems to sort of stick to itself.

I don't know if it was said, but the stone is aluminum oxide. If the original rub stone used with the machine isn't with it, any of the home center silicon carbide rub stones should do the job.

It's an interesting machine, for sure.

I should specify that by rub stone, I mean the ones that are sold in the tile/flooring section that are very very coarse silicon carbide (and they're cheap, too) - intended to blast away at the edge of some piece of tile or flooring, and not the ones sold in the tool section for honing (many of those appear not to be straight up silicon carbide).

The function of the oil is to carry away the swarf = a mix of metal particles and smashed abrasive particles.
WD-40 is not an oil = a Water Displacing cleaner at best to prep metals for real lubricants.

I have some oil stones. I use them to begin the repair of very badly damaged edges.
For cleaning, I flood the stone with oil, gentle scrub with a brass bristle brush (BBQ rack cleaning brush = cheap).
Then I soak up all the mush with absorbent towel. Do it again and that seems the finish.

I use 10W 40 engine oil on the oil stones in service. I don't think that switching to synthetic oil
would be any sort of incremental improvement other than to sharpen edges outdoors at -30C.
The viscosity of synthetic does not change with temperature as does conventional oils.

Originally Posted by BobL

I thought of that but I think it needs to be thinner that that. Anyway it's only a problem while to stone is taking up the oil. The instructions say to run the stone and pump until the stone is covered in a layer of oil which takes about a minute. After that there is no spraying as the oil seems to sort of stick to itself.

Light mineral oil is always a good oil for everything but the finest of oilstones. It's thick enough to float swarf out of medium crystolon to soft arkansas.

(re the comment about WD 40 above, I do like to use WD on washitas that are broken in finely and the finest of arkansas stones, but the function at that point is not to float away swarf and especially other abrasive particles, just to provide lubricant for feel. On the finest of stones - which this wheel clearly is not - mineral suspends chisel back and irons sometimes away from a stone unless very short strokes are used)