Thread: Truing a wetstone grindwheel?

btw, came across this 3rd party truing tool:

http://tallowtree.com/cts.htm

but I'm still interested in what I can do with what I have.

Edit, OK, it's an attachment for the Jet job.

Rsser,

The Tallowtree one fits the Triton wet stone sharpener so it should fit your Scheppach..

Yep. It's essentially a Jet truing tool with their own advancer.

I'm still wondering about advancing by hand with a diamond point or T truer mounted in a jig.

I can't see why not. If you have the skills (to be accurate) you could make a similar jig to the Tormek to traverse a single point shaper. The basic design is simple enough.

A T-shaper would have to be held very squarely in the jig though... with the single point it wouldn't matter whether it was angled slightly just so long as the point remained at a constant distance.

There are two Tormek diamond point jigs. I believe that the Tallowtree jig was created before the latest version of the Tormek was released. I have the latest version and it looks a lot like the Tallowtree. The Tormek is painless to use.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks guys.

Derek, how long does it take you to make a pass?

Had a play with the SV50.

With the diamond point dresser on the V block there's a wee bit of play. Pity the thumb screw for the bar section tools with the V block on its bottom won't swap with the other thumb screw.

The T tool however seemed solid. Perhaps because the handle is less slippery than the other.

Hi Ern

I would say about 1 minute, perhaps 2.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek. Shouldn't be beyond a steady hand as long as the jigging is good.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Ern

I would say about 1 minute, perhaps 2.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I take about the same amount of time.

Cool.

I need a way of reducing the movement in the jig of the diamond point tool for the reasons Skew mentioned. Maybe just a bit of pipe halved lengthways.

Just jumped on this forum this morning with this exact question after last night in the shed.


I just picked up one of these Tiger 2000s yesterday and had a bit of a play last night. Grinds and polishes alright, probably needing final honing as mentioned on almost every reference to these tormek, scheppach, jet etc. grinders - But - After grinding a 25 mm chisel the wheel cuts a fairly sharp 'skew' in the blade to a point where the point is at an angle of maybe 4 - 5 degrees out of square. THe guide bar appears square, but the wheel itself is definately not square (about 1.5mm out if I drop the guide bar right down on to the stone) Is this normal to others who have purchased the Scheppach?

It obvioously can be fixed fairly easily with one of those truing jigs by any of the above, but at $130 odd seems a bit steep when you can get the dressers mentioned above for $10 if you look around (ebay and such).

Is there any reason that on of these cant be clamped into the supplied straight jig to do the same job with care to ensure square? It cant be that hard can it if you take it slow and are careful. I dont have one of these dressers yet but would appreciate any thoughts.

2nd question. THe planer blade jig is $300. Has anyone thought of or actually made a jig than can take jointer or even thicknesser blades for less than the cost of 1/3 the cost of a domino (I think that might be a good measure of currency around here). I was thinking about a piece of aluminium angle 500mm long 50mm x 10mm or similar. with another piece used to clamp the blade in with wing nuts and bolts etc. Theangle could simply slide along the guide bar past the welded t bar and end bar to give you and almost unlimited blade length. What do you think?

Bryan, did you check to see if your chisel sides were parallel? If not, you can get a skew. Just a thought.

With your question about a planer blade jig, would you mind starting a new thread on this?

Hi Bryan

Firstly, my concept of using a Tormek-type blade holder (and I include the Scheppach, Tritoin and even my beltsander jig) is that it is driveable. The blade holder clamps at each side and, rather than seeing this as a weakness, it can be viewed as a strength ... use it to straighten the grind on the blade. Just grind a little, look at the grind patten, then adjust the grind weight by adding and/or subtracting pressure onone or both clamping screws.

Secondly, the reason I would not recommend a cheap wheel dresser is that it (a) needs to be fixed square to the guide bar, and (b) capable of fine, incremental adjustments. Otherwise you will simply waste your wheel. Bite your lip and spend once on the Tormek dresser. It will last a lifetime (although the diamond tip need to be changed every few years).

Regards from perth

Derek