Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 44 of 44
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    I think the CE requirement is on the size of the motor that powers the item.
    , you could be right.

    I based my statement on what I was told by the machinery suppliers when I wanted a dust extractor without a no-volt switch (wanted to use with remote). They all told me that all this machinery was changed to no-volt switches because of European CE requirements.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Birsbane
    Posts
    7

    Default

    I finally got around to picking me up one of the Scheppach Tiger 2500 from Hare & Forbes and what an adventure it was.

    Picked up the first one took it home whacked on the wheel and found 2 big chips on the grinding wheel So I took it back and the guy that worked there was more then happy to grab me a new one, bought it out and discovered it had a crack in the wheel... 3rd time lucky? No.. he brings another one out and it had even bigger chips then the first one! He went back out and looked for a wheel out back instead of bringing in more machines.

    He bought one out, I took it home and discovered it wasn't flat... I probably should have seen it as a sign after the first 2 wheel and upgraded to the Tormek but I didn't have the cash .

    I tried to get the Tormek tool support with the adjustable thread but its a different size then my machine, which proved to be a pain when trying to true the wheel. I found it quite difficult to move the jig down just a fraction as it always went to far. But after a lot of stuffing around I got the wheel flat and have successfully sharpened my Plane and chisels.

    Am wondering if its worth getting a thread on the tool support myself, has anyone else modified or had theirs remade?

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ziggnaff View Post

    I tried to get the Tormek tool support with the adjustable thread but its a different size then my machine, which proved to be a pain when trying to true the wheel. I found it quite difficult to move the jig down just a fraction as it always went to far.
    As far as I am aware both the Scheppach and the Tormek use 12mm bars for the tool support, with a 100mm spacing.

    So which size is different then?

    The threaded rod doesn't help with adjusting it down or towards the wheel, but does help with adjusting up or away from the wheel.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Birsbane
    Posts
    7

    Default

    The bar size is the same (12mm) but the Schepp is 100mm spacing and the Tormek which they had at Carbatek was different... It has been a long week (missus had a baby) but I want to say the Tormek was smaller. The guy behind the counter asked when I compared the 2 if it was for a Shepp and said he was aware of that size difference.

    Edit: 100mm is from the center of the support bars on the Schepp I assumed that what u meant? otherwise its 88mm between the bars.

    I am wondering now if the T3 and T7 is different but haven't seen anything after a quick search, will look harder latter.

    Having the adjusting screw would be handy so I can make sure I don't move it down to far after aligning the truing jig (I have a tendency to push to hard and move it a mile), but I would probably get used to it after a while as I am quite new to all of this.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    Can't speak for the T3, it is the 200mm wheel unit, but the Tormek T7 and the Scheppach 2500 definitely use the same tool support sizing and spacing.

    The Jet however uses 12mm bars, but 90mm apart and it has the screw adjustment bar/nut.

    I bought one of those and am using it on my dry grinder.

    Agree that the adjusting nut is handy, am considering changing the spacing of the bushes on the Tiger 2500 and use a Jet tool support. It is also smoother as it appears to chrome plated, shiny anyway.

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Birsbane
    Posts
    7

    Default

    In case you missed it as i think you posted before I finished edditing..

    100mm is from the center of the support bars on the Schepp I assumed that what u meant? otherwise its 88mm between the bars.

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ziggnaff View Post
    In case you missed it as i think you posted before I finished edditing..

    100mm is from the center of the support bars on the Schepp I assumed that what u meant? otherwise its 88mm between the bars.
    Yes, 100mm centre to centre (100-12=88, so yes 88mm between them).

    Tormek T7 is the same, they can be purchased separately, IIRC they are $76ea, the Jet sells for $22.

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Birsbane
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Hmm so must of been a different model they had there, this is good news thanks for the help!

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    ...
    Posts
    7,955

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ziggnaff View Post
    Am wondering if its worth getting a thread on the tool support myself, has anyone else modified or had theirs remade?
    No, but I have some aluminium collars that fit the bar and clamp down with small scrub screws that I use.

    When finished with one pass of the truing tool I raise the collar about 1mm (thickness of some small card board) and re clamp the collar and then move the bar down. Works a treat as I'm inclined to be too heavy handed as well.



    Peter.

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default

    GJ cut a thread on one of the mounting bar mounting bars on his 2500.
    Cheers, Ern

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    south austalia
    Posts
    213

    Default

    I simply made another support bar myself out of stainless on my scheppach tiger 2500, I made one side with thread, cost me probably $2.00 in bar, the thing is in constant use never had a problem!

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Birsbane
    Posts
    7

    Default

    I have found that there are 2 spare parts for the support bar, US-103 & US-105 so that's where my size difference came in as I compared it to the US-103.

    I sell some of them collars at work think I will try that first as it will be the cheapest option, thanks for all the replies good to hear what others have tried.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Hi Fred,

    I just bought a Sheppach 2500 two weeks ago. I have to confess to being very dissapointed. I fitted the wheel and found that it was out of true by about 1mm on diameter and also had some sideways wobble. the machine sounds really rough and it vibrates a lot (at a much higher frequency than could be attributed to the wheel alignment issues). I tilted the machine and disengaged the drive and the main shaft turned quietly by hand and felt reasonable. The motor itself sounded less noisy when run disengaged but still rough so I assume that's the problem and it just gets louder when its under load.
    I'm surprised at this because these machines are very simple machines but not cheap, they should be able to achieve basic quality control.

    Time for a return trip to Hare and Forbes.

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    Don, as I related in my first post here, my first one was very rough as well and I returned it and exchanged it for another one, which is till working very well.

    My recommendation to anyone contemplating buying one of these units is to get them to run the actual machine you are buying in the shop before taking it home.

    The stone being out of "true" is common on all of these machines, and I have seen reports of this for all the brands including Tormek. Nothing that a quick "dressing" won't fix.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Similar Threads

  1. Scheppach TiGer 2500 wet stone grinder
    By Therapy in forum SHARPENING
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 23rd November 2009, 07:58 PM
  2. Chip in New Scheppach TiGer 2500 Wheel
    By Earthwhile in forum SHARPENING
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 22nd September 2009, 10:20 PM
  3. scheppach tiger 2000 wet stone grinder???
    By nz_carver in forum SHARPENING
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 3rd July 2009, 11:27 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •