Thread: Sharpening angles

Are you freehanding or using a guide?

If a guide, use 25 degrees as your primary bevel and 30 degrees as your secondary bevel for both chisels and planes. This is give-or-take. If the edge does not hold - folds or chips - increase the secondary a degree at a time until it does hold.

I freehand, and do so on the hollow. Consequently, the hollow is the same angle as the cutting angle.

Here are a few guidelines for cutting angles:

All bench chisels that are struck should be around 30 degrees. Paring chisels can be 25 degrees (some will say 20 degrees but I do not find any advantage here if the 25-degree edge is truly sharp). Mortice chisels go to 35 degrees.

Bevel down plane blades need to be 30 degrees (David Charlesworth prefers 35 degrees).

Bevel up plane blades should all have a 25 degree primary. I hone my block planes on this hollow. I add a higher secondary (typically 38-50 degrees) for BU bench planes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hey Derek,

I have one of these guides for the grinder https://www.carbatec.com.au/sharpeni...hisel-grinding

And one of these guides for the water stone https://www.carbatec.com.au/sharpeni...e/honing-guide although I am planning on replacing it with the Veritas MkII Honing guide.

Darren.

They're good.

Make an angle guide for the Eclipse like this ...



Here is an article on setting the angle for the grinder: Return to Woodwork Techniques

Regards from Perth

Derek

Awesome I'll give that a go Derek.

So I run the grinder at 25 deg then the hone on the stone at 30deg for the small bevel?

or should I also hone at 30 deg first to get a nice smooth face?

Sorry if these are silly questions.

Darren.

So I run the grinder at 25 deg then the hone on the stone at 30deg for the small bevel?

Yes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Awesome cheers.