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Thread: Sharpening cheaply
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4th November 2012, 03:58 PM #16
Jim
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Pieces of an old boot for me. Just had to hop around from then on.
Originally Posted by Sebastiaan56
IMO once you have sharpening sussed then it really doesnt matter too much what stuff you have to do it with. It becomes a game of finding the most efficient way to get to shaving sharp. It becomes an exercise in collecting redundant stuff.
I made a strop from a piece of leather from an old lounge and a bit of its arm that I got on clean up day. Cost $0. The rouge was $6.95 about 20 years ago. Once you have a stick of rouge you dont need another this lifetime. Its the same with the stones I have. All from various shows and garage sales. "An Arkansas stone for $5, sure I need another one"
Diamond paste, Derek, you're a bugger, better get me some....Cheers,
Jim
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5th November 2012, 02:48 PM #17
Hewer of wood
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My last post on this matter (bugle playing in the background): if you want a sharp edge the blade back has to be checked for flatness and if nec. flattened and then polished.
Some blades come from the factory with this done and some don't.
Flattening and polishing backs is a whole new world of pain in my experience. (Sorry, a whole world of 'meditation' as you go up and back a few thousand times on progressively finer grits).
One option in all of this is to use good abrasive sheets on float glass. 3M do some good stuff. Micro-finishing film or Imperial Lapping film. I was able to source some 100 micron stuff (= c. #150 in coated abrasive terms, FEPA standard = P prefixed to the grit # on the sheet label; from RioGrand in the US) as well as 40 micron and finer locally (TheSandpaperMan). So this stuff gets laid on a flat carrier (float glass or Melamine-coated chipboard checked for flatness) and off you go. Some of the product comes adhesive backed, some doesn't. If it doesn't try a spritz of water to hold it down; otherwise use spray adhesive.
HTHCheers, Ern
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