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  1. #46
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    Ern,
    If $$$ tight( & when aren't they?) Get hold of a lump of float glass,some spray adhesive and various grades of wet and dry to do the rough stuff on the blades.
    Much cheaper than replacing water stones, and works really efficiently.
    Or am I preaching to the converted???

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  3. #47
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    Melbourne, Aus.
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    Thanks for the advice Lignin.

    It's a pretty old thread so yes, I was converted! And spent many a boring hour truing plane bodies and lapping blades and chisels. Also went to a dual diamond stone ... but have moved on.

    If anyone in Melb wants a length of float glass on MDF, PM me. Will exchange for a bottle with something intoxicating inside it
    Cheers, Ern

  4. #48
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    I started this thread originally when I was a moderator. The intention of it was to simply catch peoples eye and get them to read the post and discover there was a sharpening forum. At that point in time no-one was using it. That's all the post was about really, but it is gratifying to see all this sharpening discussion happening - and in the proper forum.


    (You may note that there are older threads in this forum, but this was the first. Other posts were transferred here over the years as the mods had the time to move them. Some of that thankless background work they do.)

  5. #49
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    Thanks for putting in the effort Groggy.

    Sharpening is like a religion isn't it? There are various creeds and rituals, and vigorous debates about how to get to heaven quickest. And in fact what heaven is!
    Cheers, Ern

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Perth
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    My Dad was a slaughterman for many years (and has rediculously sharp knives) swears by liquid soap on his sharpening stones.

    regards
    Anthony

  7. #51
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    Dec 2008
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    Hunter Valley
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    Thumbs up

    Ah, well, if it is a sharpening forum, what does the august assembly think is THE BEST chisel and plane sharpenimg jig for those of us who are not clever enough to do it free hand.
    I nominate the latest Veritas jig as almost infinitely superior to anything else available.
    Let battle commence!!

  8. #52
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    The best sharpening or honing jig? Different things, to me anyway.

    Honing:
    I like the Ellipse honing jig for plane blades - very quick to insert a blade and use. For chisels I like the LV Mk-II but even then it depends on the chisel geometry. Not all chisels have coplanar backs and faces and this can be an embuggerance when trying to hone an edge. Touch ups can be done with some green paste and a lump of mdf.

    Sharpening:
    I use a water wheel or (sometimes) a diamond stone. The jig used came with the machine (Scangrind).

    Grinding:
    LV rest and a Norton AO wheel for sharpening.

  9. #53
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    Thumbs up

    Good start from the moderator (Sounds vaguely religous.-----Oh, silly me ---Woodwork IS a religion!!)
    Now let's include sharpening angles and hones in the mix.

  10. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lignin View Post
    Good start from the moderator
    I am no longer a moderator, I have retired from that fine group and am now a normal member (well, mostly normal ).

  11. #55
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    Not all chisels have coplanar backs and faces and this can be an embuggerance when trying to hone an edge

    Gotta pay that one Groggy.

    Coplanar in blades.

    Never thought of it.

    Love the feeling of the ground under the feet falling away at a rapid rate
    Cheers, Ern

  12. #56
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    OK Groggy, you're now immoderate, but answer the bloody question.
    You too, Ern.
    Last edited by Lignin; 18th January 2009 at 04:56 PM. Reason: "Cos I could!

  13. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lignin View Post
    OK Groggy, you're now immoderate, but answer the bloody question.
    You too, Ern.
    About the angles? That is difficult because 'it depends'. Type of wood, type of plane etc. Chisels vary too according to type. Generally, whatever they are sharpened to I use a secondary bevel for the honing The angle is usually 1 or two degrees off the primary angle. I do not use back bevels.

  14. #58
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    Is 'best jig' the question? (responding to the q before the last)

    Whatever works
    Last edited by rsser; 18th January 2009 at 05:26 PM. Reason: Leap frogging
    Cheers, Ern

  15. #59
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    As for the liquid soap on stones for a slaughterman.

    firstly his knives are likley to be stanless and they are never likley to get the chance to corrode.
    and
    modern liquid soap isnt actulay soap at all it is detergent in moat cases.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  16. #60
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    I got a Tormek..the green one..last year..I mean 2007 and I was using it for all my sharpening. however for the larger plane blades i still prefer the 12mm float glass and working htrough the grades of wet 'n' dry. I find the paper sticks to the glass if a spray a little water on the glass. I tried that sparay adhesive but found it a problem with the finest grades of paper as it fowmed small lumps which caused the blades to cut into the paper....i finish of with the leather honing wheel with honing paste on the Tormek.
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


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