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29th July 2007, 09:15 PM #31
I'm pretty sure you are on the right track James and it will come as you do it.
The best tip I got was not to glue the paper to the glass but just to wet it down and it holds on that way.
StudleyAussie Hardwood Number One
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29th July 2007 09:15 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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29th July 2007, 09:27 PM #32Why emery paper when shavings.net and the taunton article have silicon carbide? Is there a difference?
The best tip I got was not to glue the paper to the glass but just to wet it down and it holds on that way.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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29th July 2007, 09:37 PM #33James K
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29th July 2007, 11:25 PM #34CNC Techi
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I am sure that someone will correct me, but I have thought that emery and W&D are one and the same thing. If not, I meant to say W&D. Quoted from DerekCohen
I am not sure either but I thought emery was in tape form with a cloth back and W&D was a sheet and paper back, either way the grit is the same.
Jisk did you get to spend an arvo with Dean or Michael? If not I'm on the southside of Brissy, give me a PM. Bear in mind I'm no expert but I can start you off with my amateuristic ways. I just bought my first waterstone (from rssr as MOF) and "hooowee" I'm lookin forward to cuttin somethin with me "ol faithful scapels. Think I'll try splitting hairs first!!! Has anybody else thought of doin somethin pottery after sharpening with there waterstones??Last edited by BAZMick; 29th July 2007 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Sorry didn't use quote proper
It's all very technical!!
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2nd August 2007, 10:19 AM #35James K
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Bazmick,
I didn't get to catch up with Dean - he got sick late last week.
I'm making (somewhat slow) progress with the sharpening, but it is progress. If you're keen to show me a thing or two, I'm keen to watch.
PM is on its way...
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2nd August 2007, 06:35 PM #36James K
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Victory!
I made MAJOR progress today with sharpening. I picked up the Veritas Mk 2 Honing Jig from Carbatec based on an old thread of Derek's I found on here.
Wow, what a difference it made. Within ten minutes of reading the manual I had a sharp edge that I could cut my arm hairs with!
Photo attached
In my adventures with sharpening, I noticed that the original plane blade I had been sharpening has been somewhat trashed by the ?????? stone I started with. The stone must have a slight raise in the middle as it's made the edge of the blade slightly concave. It's going to take quite a bit of "grinding" with sandpaper to flatten it out.
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2nd August 2007, 06:56 PM #37Hewer of wood
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Good work Jisk.
FWIW I'm giving up fabric-backed paper on glass. Coming to the conclusion that it flexes and takes too much off the blade corners. Back to W&D.
I got several grades of 3M micro-abrasive from the States and gave them a workout today. Yep, a polish good enough to count your nose hairs inCheers, Ern
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12th August 2007, 05:52 PM #38Novice
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hi guys,
i may be wrong, i use the plate glass and w.d.. works great, razor sharp edges every time. but i never use oil as a lube, you don't get a polished edge, the oil dulls it or stains it. i all ways use water, i get a polished edge that way..i may be wrong but..im only 17 guys. go easy on me
thanks
its all greek to me
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13th August 2007, 09:52 AM #39
Nothing to be nervous about Doug. You have found a way that works for you and no one will argue that. I think most people use water as a lubricant/flushing agent anyway.
Myself I prefer to use stones to wet and dry but there is more than one way to skin a cat.
StudleyAussie Hardwood Number One
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13th August 2007, 03:08 PM #40
Only 17??? RIPPER!! Another lamb to the slaughter!
Newbie Dug, maaaate, I use cheap CRC/ DWF type stuff on my diamond plate, my oilstones and when using wet and dry paper as it seems to be about as as thin as water, floats away the particles of metal just as well and I prefer to keep water away from my expensive steel tools.
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13th August 2007, 11:22 PM #41
I use a metre long by 600mm by 19mm sheet of plate glass that did cost a few $$$ but I reckon on having the means to flatten my plane soles/sides and not the cast iron tables as RSSER has mentioned that some folk use.
It's as heavy and does not move around and it has proved it's worth over time with WD an varying grades across the face and allows for complete control with reasonably long strokes along the WD.
Have been using it for a number of years now with satisfying results.
CheersJohnno
Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.
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13th August 2007, 11:27 PM #42
[QUOTE=derekcohen,
Studley, yes you can hone this way, but for serious lapping of backs of blades I would advise that you glue down the sheets to avoid any dubbing as the paper curls and moves.
Regards from Perth
Derek[/QUOTE]
Spray on glue from the craft supply shops helps and holds down well!
CheersJohnno
Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.
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14th August 2007, 06:08 PM #43Novice
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- Aug 2007
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- S.E suburbs, melbourne
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haha yes christopha im 17.. its odd how i have this love for wood considering i have no influences around to show me what to do..im self tort, im mainly interested in hand tool restoration, lol just thought u might want to know, anyway one question, will does oil stain the steel? every time i use oil as a lube it give a dull finish , is this just my eyes?
thanks.its all greek to me
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