Thread: Need sharpening help - Southern Brisbane

Why emery paper when shavings.net and the taunton article have silicon carbide? Is there a difference?

James, I am sure that someone will correct me, but I have thought that emery and W&D are one and the same thing. If not, I meant to say W&D.

The best tip I got was not to glue the paper to the glass but just to wet it down and it holds on that way.

Studley, yes you can hone this way, but for serious lapping of backs of blades I would advise that you glue down the sheets to avoid any dubbing as the paper curls and moves.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

James, I am sure that someone will correct me, but I have thought that emery and W&D are one and the same thing. If not, I meant to say W&D.

I'm a newbie, I just go by what I read - if you thought they are the same, they probably are .

I am sure that someone will correct me, but I have thought that emery and W&D are one and the same thing. If not, I meant to say W&D. Quoted from DerekCohen

I am not sure either but I thought emery was in tape form with a cloth back and W&D was a sheet and paper back, either way the grit is the same.

Jisk did you get to spend an arvo with Dean or Michael? If not I'm on the southside of Brissy, give me a PM. Bear in mind I'm no expert but I can start you off with my amateuristic ways. I just bought my first waterstone (from rssr as MOF) and "hooowee" I'm lookin forward to cuttin somethin with me "ol faithful scapels. Think I'll try splitting hairs first!!! Has anybody else thought of doin somethin pottery after sharpening with there waterstones??

Bazmick,

I didn't get to catch up with Dean - he got sick late last week.

I'm making (somewhat slow) progress with the sharpening, but it is progress. If you're keen to show me a thing or two, I'm keen to watch.

PM is on its way...

I made MAJOR progress today with sharpening. I picked up the Veritas Mk 2 Honing Jig from Carbatec based on an old thread of Derek's I found on here.

Wow, what a difference it made. Within ten minutes of reading the manual I had a sharp edge that I could cut my arm hairs with!

Photo attached

In my adventures with sharpening, I noticed that the original plane blade I had been sharpening has been somewhat trashed by the ?????? stone I started with. The stone must have a slight raise in the middle as it's made the edge of the blade slightly concave. It's going to take quite a bit of "grinding" with sandpaper to flatten it out.

Good work Jisk.

FWIW I'm giving up fabric-backed paper on glass. Coming to the conclusion that it flexes and takes too much off the blade corners. Back to W&D.

I got several grades of 3M micro-abrasive from the States and gave them a workout today. Yep, a polish good enough to count your nose hairs in

hi guys,
i may be wrong, i use the plate glass and w.d.. works great, razor sharp edges every time. but i never use oil as a lube, you don't get a polished edge, the oil dulls it or stains it. i all ways use water, i get a polished edge that way..i may be wrong but..im only 17 guys. go easy on me

thanks

Nothing to be nervous about Doug. You have found a way that works for you and no one will argue that. I think most people use water as a lubricant/flushing agent anyway.

Myself I prefer to use stones to wet and dry but there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Studley

Only 17??? RIPPER!! Another lamb to the slaughter!

Newbie Dug, maaaate, I use cheap CRC/ DWF type stuff on my diamond plate, my oilstones and when using wet and dry paper as it seems to be about as as thin as water, floats away the particles of metal just as well and I prefer to keep water away from my expensive steel tools.

Originally Posted by rsser

Sounds like a plan jisk.

Re the size of the float glass I went for 10 cm x 80 cm x 1 cm thick. Not cheap. If doing it again I'd go for a metre long and 11 cm wide .... helpful if you ever get hooked on flattening the soles of planes (now there's some hard and tedious work!). Some folk use the cast iron tables of their table jaw or jointer. I'm not keen on getting grit or water near mine.

Happy stroking ;-}

I use a metre long by 600mm by 19mm sheet of plate glass that did cost a few $$$ but I reckon on having the means to flatten my plane soles/sides and not the cast iron tables as RSSER has mentioned that some folk use.

It's as heavy and does not move around and it has proved it's worth over time with WD an varying grades across the face and allows for complete control with reasonably long strokes along the WD.

Have been using it for a number of years now with satisfying results.

Cheers

[QUOTE=derekcohen,
Studley, yes you can hone this way, but for serious lapping of backs of blades I would advise that you glue down the sheets to avoid any dubbing as the paper curls and moves.

Regards from Perth

Derek[/QUOTE]

Spray on glue from the craft supply shops helps and holds down well!

Cheers

haha yes christopha im 17.. its odd how i have this love for wood considering i have no influences around to show me what to do..im self tort, im mainly interested in hand tool restoration, lol just thought u might want to know, anyway one question, will does oil stain the steel? every time i use oil as a lube it give a dull finish , is this just my eyes?

thanks.