Thread: Does this Sharpening Jig have Potential?

Originally Posted by JPA

I'm just wondering if anyone can point out any major flaws that will cause me problems?

Nice job - a fairly typical design, I'm sure we all have something similar. But as you have already found, not getting it perpendicular will cause a skew shape. This can be overcome by incorporating a right-angle guide on the clamping plates. You only need one side, leaving the other free for different width blades.

Originally Posted by JPA

10 points for whoever can tell me where the rubber padding came from .

I have a large collection of rubber inner tubes I pick up from the roadside. They are ideal for things like this.

Potentialproblems that I can see are

1. the blade could move against the rubber causing the ange to change.
2. the material inthe wheels could compress during use once again changing the angle slghtly.

2. the material inthe wheels could compress during use once again changing the angle slghtly.

I understand that, but would very minor changes to the angle make a huge difference? I'm not needing my chisels to be bang on 30 degrees every time. But are you saying the bevel could be rounded over time?

In regards to the rubber it's VERY sticky, when I un-tightened the wing nuts both rubber sides just stayed in place. Pulling the chisel out made a big slurping sound from the seal created! When I'm sharpening my other chisels I'll definitely make sure to align the blade properly with a square.

If you want to learn how to sharpen freehand that won't help it will just put a groove in your stone

I think it's a great start! Well done!

You will find with the 4 wheel design you will be fixed in the angle you can sharpen at, which might be fine for what your trying to achieve. A micro adjustment would be ideal as once you have sharpened in your primary bevel, you can adjust it up a degree and just hone the very edge.

If you want to start free hand sharpening I can see how a jig can work. It will allow you the chance to see what sharp is and what it feels like to work with, as well as taking some of the frustration out of it.

I started free hand sharpening for about 10 years then I bought a jig and now I use both methods. I use a jig to reshape the primary bevel and hand honing in-between. Hand sharpening rapidly speeds up your work and using a jig helps lengthen the life of your chisels.
I still use the belt grinder to reset the primary bevel from time to time if I have a chip in the edge.

The best method to test sharpness is to work with the chisels. Feel how it cuts and look at the results. You just keep getting better at it.

Shaving hair is how we all start out. It's not a consistent indication of sharpness. A wire edge or an edge sharpened on a relatively coarse stone will shave hair as well.

Firm pressure on the edge of a sharp chisel or knife is not a good idea! A sharp edge will just pop through the layers of skin easily!

Keep it going.
That won't be the last jig you will make! You get hooked on making them! There is a jig for everything to be made!

Originally Posted by Ben Dono

I think it's a great start! Well done!
The best method to test sharpness is to work with the chisels. Feel how it cuts and look at the results. You just keep getting better at it.
Firm pressure on the edge of a sharp chisel or knife is not a good idea! A sharp edge will just pop through the layers of skin easily!

Good advice from Ben. In the same way don't try to catch a chisel if it falls off the bench. It's easier to grind out a chipped edge than to clean blood off the floor.

I have a scruffy strip of western red cedar, maybe 20 x 60 x 600mm. That is my "try" stick which I have used for 7-10 years to judge my sharpening & honing skills.
I need it because I don't carve fingers. As I start to work more and more in birch (Betula sp), I now have a second try stick.
I suggest that the correct way to judge whether you got the edge done right is in the wood that you intend to work.

You ping pong sir?

You ping pong sir?

Indeed! Or at least used to. I had some very sticky chinese rubber on an old bat that I decided to give a second life and it's worked a treat!

Thanks Ben and Robson for some good tips - I'll have to make a scrap piece of red gum my measure of sharpness, though that may take a while to gauge sharpness with. In the mean time my goal will be to make myself bleed .

Also, how long does it take to get a chip out? I had a small chip (maybe half a mm deep) on a japanese chisel that took forever to get out on a 300 grit diamond stone . I have a new japanese chisel that doesn't need a heap of work so perhaps I will have some better luck with that!