Thread: A Sharpening simplicity breakthrough?? Comments from the wise heads please

Originally Posted by Berlin

..... however, I meant I use wooden planes not woodrivers...

I understood that you meant wooden, Matt

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

I have heard at least one well known toolmaker comment that a standard bench grinder is adequate to profile a chisel or plane blade. You have to know what you are doing, be aware not to draw the temper and above all be patient.

profiling the grinder's wheel to a radius helps to control the process. the profile means that only part of the wheel is in contact with the blade, reducing the amount of steel in contact with the blade and hence the risk of overheating. Derek has written here or on his site about it.

Well I did what FenceFurniture did and got me some diamond paste and had a go on some chisels then on my new Veritas router plane blades straight out of the box.

All I can say is that FenceFurniture is the new god of diamond sharpening. I ordered 8000 and 14000 paste and had a go tonight on MDF. I was impressed, the chisels are BAFB (beyond all FXXXing belief) scary sharp and I got a mirror shine. I then had a go at the Veritas router plane blades. After working on the backs with waterstones starting at 400 then moving through 1000 then up to 4000, I went for the 8000 diamond paste. Well did I get a nice surprise so on with the 14000 paste. I'm hooked for life and so easy with little mess. If I can find out what to replace my 400 to 4000 waterstones with diamond plates or paste I'll be a happy man.

Sorry, I know this will upset someone with a different method but this is the way I'm going.

SB

G'day SB, I'm really chuffed that you got a benefit out of all this. Seeing the first one come up to mirror is a revelation (of ease) isn't it? More than anything it's the lack of mess and the quick setup/down that has me hooked.

Gemcuts have the paste in
100
280
325
600
1200
1800
3000
8000
14000
50000
100000

and they're all the same price.

I will get a 600 I think, to go after the 600 DMT plate (I suspect they are not identical).

Originally Posted by Superbunny

I was impressed, the chisels are BAFB (beyond all FXXXing belief) scary sharp and I got a mirror shine.
SB

BAFB. That must be from the same latin derivative as FUBAR, which is possibly how the chisels started.

Good to hear you had a good result.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by ian

profiling the grinder's wheel to a radius helps to control the process. the profile means that only part of the wheel is in contact with the blade, reducing the amount of steel in contact with the blade and hence the risk of overheating. Derek has written here or on his site about it.

Ian

That's interesting. I was re-reading your post again. One of the problems of profiling a grinding wheel is that immediately after having adapted it to the specific purpose you need it back for the original standard use.

Of course the answer is to have a wheel that is just interchanged as required. Then I remembered I have about thirty such wheels. I bought them from a sawmill that was closing down. They had used them on the gullets for their bandsaws so the edges are a full round (make that 180 deg).

I also remembered why I hadn't used them. They have a larger diameter hole than my bench grinders and some of the wheels are too large a diameter.

However I might have to borrow Brett's thinking cap, if he hasn't worn it out, and come up with a solution. Oh, and the wheels are probably a little on the coarse side so I would have to stop any grinding in good time. I aim for about 1mm to go normally.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

...They have a larger diameter hole than my bench grinders and some of the wheels are too large a diameter....

Does the answer not lie within your name?

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Does the answer not lie within your name?

.

Did you ever watch a child's cartoon programme called Banana Man? Banana man, a superhero, had a mentor in the form of a crow, who typically sat on his shoulder and offered advice. The crow would offer advice and Banana Man would respond with an exaggerated "Ooh Yeees!"

That makes you the crow.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Does the answer not lie within your name?

That's apPauling!

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Ian

That's interesting. I was re-reading your post again. One of the problems of profiling a grinding wheel is that immediately after having adapted it to the specific purpose you need it back for the original standard use.

Of course the answer is to have a wheel that is just interchanged as required. Then I remembered I have about thirty such wheels. I bought them from a sawmill that was closing down. They had used them on the gullets for their bandsaws so the edges are a full round (make that 180 deg).

I also remembered why I hadn't used them. They have a larger diameter hole than my bench grinders and some of the wheels are too large a diameter.

However I might have to borrow Brett's thinking cap, if he hasn't worn it out, and come up with a solution. Oh, and the wheels are probably a little on the coarse side so I would have to stop any grinding in good time. I aim for about 1mm to go normally.

Regards
Paul

Suprising that the answer wasnt " you can buy it at .... hang on who else needs one.. I'll organise a group buy "

Originally Posted by Pac man

Suprising that the answer wasnt " you can buy it at .... hang on who else needs one.. I'll organise a group buy "

I don't think Bushmiller wants to sell though.

to expand on my earlier comment

Originally Posted by ian

profiling the grinder's wheel to a radius helps to control the process. the profile means that only part of the wheel is in contact with the blade, reducing the amount of steel in contact with the blade and hence the risk of overheating. Derek has written here or on his site about it.

from FineWoodworking
... The key to the grinding technique is a slight curve across the edge of the wheel (see illustration below), as opposed to the flat edge most people think is right. You'll need a wheel dresser to create that curve, and to reshape it when the center wears down.

Thanks for reminding me ian.

Its a good article from Joel Moskowicz from the May june 2008 edition pages 62 -67. You can read it by getting a trial version of the subscription then viewing the article.

I have a question for the experts, does diamond paste vary in quality from different suppliers?