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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    melb
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    Default Sharpening stone/plate that can be used dry and never needing flattening

    Is there a sharpening stone/plate that never needs to be flattened and can be used dry? Not a lot of time is spent on a stone since learning unicorn method so it would be great if I could just get a single ~1000 grit stone

    At the moment I have those cast iron plates with diamond paste, it works but just a little messy

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    10,810

    Default

    ALL stones/plates need something to carry away the swarf, otherwise the surface will clog up/glaze over and the stone will stop cutting.

    You can use water, soapy water, or oil.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    68
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    12,006

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    Is there a sharpening stone/plate that never needs to be flattened and can be used dry? Not a lot of time is spent on a stone since learning unicorn method so it would be great if I could just get a single ~1000 grit stone

    At the moment I have those cast iron plates with diamond paste, it works but just a little messy
    short answer is "not really".

    Spyderco make a range of three ceramic bench stones graded Medium -- Fine -- Ultra Fine. I can't easily see a grit comparison for the Spyderco stones, but on my edge tools, the Ultra Fine leaves a polish as good as I get using a 8000 grit Shapton.
    Out of the box, Spyderco stones are not always dead flat. The stones are primarily designed for sharpening knives where absolute flatness of the stone is not required, unlike what you need for chisels or plane blades. HOWEVER, all three Spyderco stones can be flattened using a diamond plate and running water.


    Windex (window cleaner) can be used to remove swarf and should be a lot less messy than diamond paste.



    BTW,
    1000 grit is pretty coarse for a bench stone.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

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    I have a couple of sets of stones. All were touted as either water-less or needing minimal water.

    One is a set of Medium Spyderco + Ultra Fine Spyderco. The Medium is around 3-4000 grit and the UF is around 8-10000. When using these, I generally start with a very worn 600 or 1200 (not sure, could be either) diamond stone by Eze-lap (it is about 20 years old). All these stones require wetting. In my case I use a spritz of soapy water. Without this, they will glaze over.

    The other sets are a mix of Shapton Pro 1000, used with Sigma 6000 and 13000. These, too, need a good dunk first, and then lubricating with soapy water.

    I have heard some say that they use their diamond stones dry. I do not recommend this for the above reasons.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Find something quite flat, such as a piece of "float" glass. Called "salvage glass" in the window shops.
    I'll bind the entire edge with heavy tape so I don't cut myself.
    Stick down a length of 1000 grit 3M silicon carbide wet & dry sand paper with dabs of masking tape.
    Uniformly gluing it down seems an excess with gravity on your side.
    I use 600, 800, 1000, 1200, & 1500 grits this way.

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