Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 21
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,727

    Default Cannot get a straight bevel to save my life.

    I'm getting so frustrated and I need some help. My setup is as follows.

    Vicmarc slow speed grinder + CBN wheel + Tormek BGM-100
    Veritas MKII sharpening guide



    The photo above shows what I'm dealing with. Plane blades, chisels, they all have this same angle and no matter what I do I cant get it straight. Wasn't that bothered on my chisels as its less noticeable but on plane blades it makes them almost impossible to sharpen properly.

    I've tried dialling in the bench grinder mount multiple times but the problem persists. Am I stupid or something? I've read the manual for the Tormek and the Veritas multiple times but nothing jumps out at me and I'm running out of patience, can't get anything done if I can't get my blades sharp [emoji21]

    Would you be looking at the Tormek or the Veritas? I'm out of ideas.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,727

    Default

    And the source of all my frustration.



    Just want to finish my shooting board, always stuff like this in the way.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,727

    Default

    I did notice one thing which might be giving me trouble so going to remount the bar. Turns out the plane jig manual mentions bottoming out the bar against the stone to check for square, the BGM-100 manual didn't mention this so I mounted the bar too far forward on the base and can't check this way.

    Also noticed a comment about checking the micro-adjust is at 0 which was off by a hair so fixed that too. Bear with me, will report back later.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    6,405

    Default

    If the blade has parallel sides I put it in the Tormek holder at the correct protrusion using the Tormek measuring jig and just nip it tight to hold the blade. Then using the side of the wheel I set the blade so it is flush on the wheel so the blade then has to be square to the face and then tighten the holder and begin grinding. This obviously does not work if the sides of the blade are not parallel.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    9,396

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bueller View Post
    I did notice one thing which might be giving me trouble so going to remount the bar. Turns out the plane jig manual mentions bottoming out the bar against the stone to check for square, the BGM-100 manual didn't mention this so I mounted the bar too far forward on the base and can't check this way.

    Also noticed a comment about checking the micro-adjust is at 0 which was off by a hair so fixed that too. Bear with me, will report back later.
    That is a starting point. Ensure that the rod is square to the face if the wheel. Also ensure that the face of the wheel is flat (see my article for the dangers when this is not so).

    A second way to do this is place a square against the rod and against the side of the wheel (checking that the face and side are square, of course).

    A third way is to use two squares: this is a variation of this method, below ...



    Move the arm further back from the wheel.

    Now imagine that you reversed one of the squares - the base of one is on the face of the wheel, and the base of the other is on the rod. The blades need to close up for the two to be square.

    Edit: I use the previous version Tormek blade holder (#76). This does not have the radiusing action yours has (I have the 77 as well - not mad about it. I would rather add the radius by hand). I wonder if the affects the grinding? In any event, check that the fence inside the blade holder is square.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,727

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    That is a starting point. Ensure that the rod is square to the face if the wheel. Also ensure that the face of the wheel is flat (see my article for the dangers when this is not so).

    A second way to do this is place a square against the rod and against the side of the wheel (checking that the face and side are square, of course).

    A third way is to use two squares: this is a variation of this method, below ...



    Move the arm further back from the wheel.

    Now imagine that you reversed one of the squares - the base of one is on the face of the wheel, and the base of the other is on the rod. The blades need to close up for the two to be square.

    Edit: I use the previous version Tormek blade holder (#76). This does not have the radiusing action yours has (I have the 77 as well - not mad about it. I would rather add the radius by hand). I wonder if the affects the grinding? In any event, check that the fence inside the blade holder is square.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Thanks Derek! I've remounted ensuring the rod was true to the wheel but I'll check with some squares as well. I'm also realising now that I just want to rebuild the whole platform now that I know how to set it up better. Would like to move the BGM100 closer to the grinder as I find I get close to the end of the bar on wide blades and can actually see the bar drift ever so slightly if I put too much pressure on the end.

    Going to mount it on some thicker ply and put bigger rubber feet on it too, the ones I bought are horrible and get really compressed under the weight of the grinder. I've just finished regrinding my LAJ blade so will report back when I've had a chance to sharpen. But already looks a mile better and could see the bevel being corrected square as I was grinding.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Berowra Waters
    Posts
    581

    Default

    I just do everything freehand on the belt linisher, seems to work fine so far. Maybe I’m just old school.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    60
    Posts
    742

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    I just do everything freehand on the belt linisher, seems to work fine so far. Maybe I’m just old school.
    I was just thinking the same, only ever done it freehand

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    9,396

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    I just do everything freehand on the belt linisher, seems to work fine so far. Maybe Iím just old school.
    Yes RB, I have done this for many years just that way, although my choice of poison was a bench grinder (hollow grind) rather than belt linisher (flat bevel?). I am not sure how this information aids the OP.

    There is a HUGE advantage in the set up that the OP is trying fine tune. This is based on my own. The advantage is that it takes seconds to set up, and the hollow grind is so clean that free hand sharpening - and re-sharpening - is speeded up significantly. I often joke that one spends all the money to set up a system which causes it to be used less.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,727

    Default

    Okay no pictures but sharpened up my first blade after resetting the BGM100 and miles better. Still a tiny bit of a lean but I was able to sharpen the microbevel on my LAJ blade easily by hand. Thanks all!

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    6,405

    Default

    Did you use the side of the wheel to set the blade square?

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Berowra Waters
    Posts
    581

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Yes RB, I have done this for many years just that way, although my choice of poison was a bench grinder (hollow grind) rather than belt linisher (flat bevel?). I am not sure how this information aids the OP.

    There is a HUGE advantage in the set up that the OP is trying fine tune. This is based on my own. The advantage is that it takes seconds to set up, and the hollow grind is so clean that free hand sharpening - and re-sharpening - is speeded up significantly. I often joke that one spends all the money to set up a system which causes it to be used less.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    on my linisher, I have the choice of 5 different diameter wheels, or a flat platen, so I can do hollow grinding if I wish, and I do. It’s handy for touching up gouges and things on the smaller wheel. The advantage, in my case, is that I can use the linisher for shaping metal, deburring metal, shaping wood, plastic,etc, sharpening drills,Knives, whatever, and it only takes seconds to change the belt to do any of these tasks. So I’m using one piece of equipment to do many different jobs, which is fiscally efficient in my view.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    60
    Posts
    742

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    on my linisher, I have the choice of 5 different diameter wheels, or a flat platen, so I can do hollow grinding if I wish, and I do. Itís handy for touching up gouges and things on the smaller wheel. The advantage, in my case, is that I can use the linisher for shaping metal, deburring metal, shaping wood, plastic,etc, sharpening drills,Knives, whatever, and it only takes seconds to change the belt to do any of these tasks. So Iím using one piece of equipment to do many different jobs, which is fiscally efficient in my view.
    Not wanting to derail a thread but what type of linisher do you have?

    edit for autocorrect misspelled

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,727

    Default

    I don't have a linisher gents so kind of irrelevant to the topic at hand.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Berowra Waters
    Posts
    581

    Default

    Took a few reads there Beardy to get what you meant
    I have the Radius Master 48, can’t speak highly enough of it, it’s great.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Old bevel mirrors new life idea
    By Blackout in forum RESTORATION
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 14th Oct 2019, 09:57 PM
  2. Metal straight bevel gear
    By MWF FEED in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 22nd Jun 2019, 12:10 AM
  3. Value of Double Bevel Straight Edge With Notch
    By thumbsucker in forum JAPANESE HAND TOOLS
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 4th Jun 2019, 08:22 PM
  4. 3m straight edge - or how straight can one get angle iron
    By burn in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 16th Feb 2004, 07:06 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •