Thread: What does "supa砥石" and "njuseramikusu" mean on a whetstone?

Picture? Please?　Pretty please???

With a cherry on top?


I'm curious because it's got to be one of several things, none of them good.


Stu.

Hey Schtoo.

This link will show you one that is the same, just a different grit size.

http://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?spm...id=18195204249

Umm, no, not quite. The stones in the link say 'Sapphire' on them. Some Japanese text on them, but no mention of anything you wrote previously.

Appearance doesn't matter at all, I really would like to (very much need to) see what's written on the stone you mentioned previously.

Please?

Stu.

Hey Schtoo,

I've attached a picture of the stone, the box, and a more detailed picture of the box to see the Japanese writing.

For some extra information, the Japanese in the picture is the only Japanese on the box. The instructions for use are all in German, although the product is described as white corundum in English. The instructions state that it should be soaked in water for 15-20 minutes before use, or be stored permanently in water if regulalrly needed.

Originally Posted by Russell Cook

Hey Schtoo,

I've attached a picture of the stone, the box, and a more detailed picture of the box to see the Japanese writing.

For some extra information, the Japanese in the picture is the only Japanese on the box. The instructions for use are all in German, although the product is described as white corundum in English. The instructions state that it should be soaked in water for 15-20 minutes before use, or be stored permanently in water if regulalrly needed.

Ok.

Soak it, use it, see what it's like. Might be good, might be great, might be garbage I have no idea.

It's not a counterfeit stone as I thought it might be, but it's awfully deceptive in it's presentation. It's got the superficial appearance of a Suehiro stone, the nomenclature of a Naniwa Superstone and the simple fact it's got Japanese writing on it (which is not too difficult to spot) but wasn't made in Japan, well, let's not play to the stereotype shall we?

Good luck with it, although having a look at the oleio.de site, my confidence is not great. Seems to be filled with stuff that superficially looks like 'the real deal' but the prices are way off and while the products might be decent, somehow I doubt it.

Stu.

What fun! The grit grading systems, in terms of actual particle size, are not the same
for Europe, North America or Asia, Japan in particular. Enjoy.

Well, the stone is doing kinda what I expected (although coming from me that doesn't mean much

The 1000 turned the rough factory scratches into finer scratches, and the 6000 gave a quite shiny kind of finish. I'll post some pics after I've developed my skills a bit, otherwise it's not fair on the stone!

When the time comes to need to use stones for my carving tools, I go to the strops with chrome green honing compound
from the 4k water stone. The chrome green is 0.5 micron (average). I see a mirror finish (big friggin' deal). What matters to me is that the edges make scratch-free cuts in either soft or hard woods.
That's where the money is = the carvings. Nobody gives a sweet rat's patootie about my tools/edges.

Hi,

I've been using the stone to lap a plane blade, and have discovered that the 1000# goes out of flat quite quickly. I don't expect anyone will be much surprised by this.

Anyhow, good, now I know what "This stone dishes quickly" means.

I think I'll go with my previous plan of some Sigma Power stones, most likely 400# and 1000#, maybe even a 6000#. The 400# I think would be useful as some of my factory ground blades have scratches that the 1000# stone was having no effect on.

The Sigmas will also give me the option of Mujingfang HSS blades if locally-sourced chisels also prove to be not what I want.

I suppose I should've seen this coming, but at least I've given a locally made stone a go, and I can't be accused of automatically assuming Japanese made stones are better than Chinese made ones

If your 1K stone goes "out of flat" when you are lapping a plane blade, how does that appear in your wood work? I ask as it doesn't ever happen in wood carving.

Hey RV,

I've decided to get a basic sharpening skill set down before I start making things, so the only woodwork I do is on my test piece of pine.

I'm keen to get a perfectly flat, scratch-free face on my blades and chisels, as having read Leonard Lee I'm convinced this is crucial to having a good edge as the edge recedes with future sharpening.

The flat, scratch-free face depends on holding the same face angle through-out the entire process. Big faces, beyond 25mm chisels, will take both skill and practice.

Yes, in theory, the edge recedes with sharpening over time. What's 3mm in 10 years? I do not believe that this is a factor worth concern at all.

You can't count my experience redoing a 5/35 gouge. 35 mm wide but also a #5 sweep.

I have tuned up my Stanley #5(?) Jack plane a number of times. Simple 30 degree bevel and went no further than 1500 grit W&D paper with light oil. I use it for prep work for carvings and for cutting shavings for art works. Very happy with the performance. Cannot find a reason for 4K and honing beyond that.

But, do everything. Go to each and every sharpening extreme that you have ever read about. Hindsight shows me (and I'm fussy about my carving gouge edges) that half of it is unjustified for my work. If anything, defects will show more easily in soft woods, woods that I like. I'm happy.

If you think that 12,000 grit is important, then try chrome green (50,000 grit) like I use all the time.