Thread: Tormek with Spark Grinder Wheel?

Originally Posted by BottleBolt

With all of the feedback on this forum re Tormek and how slow it is to do a bulk stock removal with the Tormek wheels and how some of us are hesitant to use a spark grinder to form a new bevel due to overheating the tool steel, has anyone tried a spark grinder wheel on a Tormek? I haven't but it would be a waste of time I reckon.

Is the the Tormek arbor's size incopatible? You can use bushings the same as on a normal grinder. Is it still very slow? Yes, the Tormek only spins at 90rpm.

If you are using a spark grinder wheel, is it a ten inch and are you running it wet or dry? DON'T RUN A NORMAL WHEEL WET.

Your thoughts?

Bottlebolt.

It takes a lot to overheat HSS steel, you will probably burn your fingers first.

The best option if you have a Tormek and a spark grinder is get a BGM 100 and fit that to your sparky to shape and then sharpen on the Tormek using the same jigs and settings.

Where in VIC are you?

Hi Bottlebolt,

I think Derek Cohen has done a good write up on the use of the BGM 100 fitted to a sparky to do what has said, and compliment the Tormek. If interested have a look here:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...ngNirvana.html

Hope the link worked and it is of use. I intend to do the same, one of these days.

Cheers
Pops

I have the same set up as Derek, running 60 grit and 80 grit on the sparkie. A light touch and if I can feel any heat on the chisel, time for a break.

The metal folks say you can get HSS dull red under natural light without ruining the heat treatment.

High carbon steel is much more touchy; get blue and you have to grind it all out.

It's not that bad doing bulk metal removal on the Tormek with HCS. Use a lot of pressure and regularly unclog the wheel with the stone grader. But unless you're skilled, the wheel will need retruing with the diamond tool after a while.

I should have included some additional background information to clarify the issue I am trying to resolve. I have the BGM 100 set up on my eight inch sparky and I use it often as the first step in reforming bevels for various chisels and plane blades.

My issue is with knife sharpening. Once you have a T7, it seems you soon become known by friends and family as the bloke who can sharpen a kitchen knife. A large number of the knives I am asked to sharpen are the cheaper variety that seem to be made from a very hard steel. Grading the T7 wheel and occasional re-truing when required still results in a slow tedious process. I thought if I mounted a course ten inch dry spark wheel in the T7, I could get the bulk of the bevel formed and then move back to the whet wheel for the final stages without having to adjust the height of the tool rest. This would also potentially lengthen the life of the whet wheel instead of wasting it on sharpening cheapy kitchen knives.

Rgds Bottlebolt

At a guess it will run too slow to be effective but may be worth a try.

And bear in mind that you may well have to retrue the T. wheel when you remount it and so will get less life out of it anyway.

You might consider aftermarket wheels for the Tormek which you may find cheaper (eg. click), or whack on a Sheppach for all of $55. I believe the holes are the same diameter but do check. 12mm is the Tormek.

In webland you'll come across some grumbles about the quality of aftermarket wheels so do the research.

Added: another source - click