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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Ryde, NSW, Australia
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    63
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    131

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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    I see. Thanks for the info. When you say middle stone - any idea what grit/micron that is? I have a set of those veritas iron plates with diamond paste 14, 7, 3.5 and 1 micron

    All the buffing wheels I see have a tiny hole which wont fit around the arbor - if anyone has a suggestion on where to buy a buffing wheel with regular size arbor hole please post it

    edit: also do you take youtube requests? Would be great to see a video taking a kitchen knife from dull to unicorn bevel
    All I could get was the small size - I had to drill and file to get it fit on the grinder. It needed to be supported with two very large washers.

    Cheers

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluddman View Post
    All I could get was the small size - I had to drill and file to get it fit on the grinder. It needed to be supported with two very large washers.

    Cheers
    Interesting... How did it you it balanced? Ie the hole exactly in the centre?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,820

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    Do not worry about the buff being balanced. Just drill out the hole (it can be a little messy to do). That's what I did ...



    With regards camber, I add it in with the coarse stone, smooth with a middle stone, then buff.

    Plane blades are definitely more touch-sensitive than chisels. I am not convinced yet this is the way to go for plane blades. I shall keep practicing. Chisels need to be sharp, but plane blades need to be sharp and perfectly surfaced (and this includes shaping the camber).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

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    Thanks all.

    derek your link is not working?

    I tried it with green block I have which is chrome oxide and the wheel I bought is alternative layers of white cloth and what looked like string twine. I got the chisels really sharp but wasnt able to get the plane blade as sharp as I could by using a honing jig.

    Its probably because when I use the stone prior to the buffer I wasnt using the jig and my skills suck so trying to get a good edge by hand is harder with more steel requiring more strokes and therefore greater chance of stuffing it up.

    I also notice there is a loose cloth buffer too
    Josco Polishing Demonstration - YouTube

    Think that would be better?

    I am keen on trying 0.3micron powder like DW did too

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,112

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    look for alumina at a lapidary supply place if you're looking for something like linde A (0.3 micron white alumina). From most real suppliers, it's about $60 a pound here, but a pound of it is an incredible amount.

    Most places that split it into smaller amounts tend to try to get some absurd amount for it, like $30 for two ounces ($240 for the split pound). It's also sold in 55 gallon drums here, so there must be significant commercial purchasers of it - it would seem a good final finisher in a machine power sharpening razor blades or the finest possible buffing bar.

    ----

    separately, I honed an iron this morning and paid more attention regarding what I do for camber since I often sharpen one handed. I'll make a very short video about it - I haven't really thought about it for a while, but one of the nice things about sharpening one handed is that you can concentrate pressure in different places very easily, and subtle.

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