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Thread: The Unicorn method
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26th August 2022, 11:39 AM #166
I've been using the method for maintenance of bowl gouge flutes, not bevels. I experimented with the method on the bevels and found no discernible benefit, but many bowl gouge brands come with hectic milling/grinding tracks in their flutes that require considerable effort to remove them sufficiently to give an even edge.
Given the tricky curvature in the flutes and the amount of work required to grind out and polish away those milling tracks, most of us turners only fully tame a few millimeters or so on the tip of the flute with the intention of doing more work on them if and when required.
What I have been doing is using the loaded buffer on a flute every three or four sharpenings and this is gradually extending the fully polished zone while also cleaning out any build up of crud there. When I do buff the flute, I do that before sharpening the bevel, not after. It is very quick to do with the contact time on the buffer taking only 4-5 seconds each time.
This may also have the benefit of removing "those little fluffy, flaky bits of steel wreck on an edge" if they are there.
I've been using the fine green compound, so might experiment with some coarser grit to see what difference that makes.
I expect that spindle gouges would also benefit from this methodStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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26th August 2022, 12:50 PM #167SENIOR MEMBER
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When I used super fine compounds and short buff times, I saw "no discernible difference" as well. Cheap, colored wax sold as buffing compound was worse. It left a pile of black waxy mess all over my tools that took paint thinner to get off.
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4th September 2022, 08:23 PM #168SENIOR MEMBER
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4th September 2022, 08:55 PM #169SENIOR MEMBER
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All your turning tools will benefit. As a turner you know there are times when you're turning some sh%t pine with growth rings 6mm apart or more and the tear out is crazy... Buffing the spindle gouge (I use the gouge to turn beads, you may use the skew which will mean a different approach) will eliminate most if not all that issue when turning beads... As I was saying in the turning forum, grey compound for the more intense turning tools - but that's for the time saving feature. White compound is probably better for the less intense turning and sharpening and produce a better edge
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