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  1. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by truckjohn View Post

    Low quality compounds which are mostly wax are basically a train wreck. The ones that came "Free" with other kits were useless.

    I ended up liking the stuff auto body and industrial buffing guys use. It's high quality, but still surprisingly cheap. I think DW and Derek use a fast cutting white Emory commercial buffing compound. I ended up with Kocur yellow - which is fast cutting and dry, not waxy, but still loads the buff very quickly.

    Ultra fine compounds like Veritas green and Flexcut yellow work too slowly and result in a lower edge life.. Probably because of less bevel rounding.

    One of the big benefits I see here is removing any remnants of wire edge. Those little fluffy, flaky bits of steel wreck an edge in record time.
    I've been using the method for maintenance of bowl gouge flutes, not bevels. I experimented with the method on the bevels and found no discernible benefit, but many bowl gouge brands come with hectic milling/grinding tracks in their flutes that require considerable effort to remove them sufficiently to give an even edge.

    Given the tricky curvature in the flutes and the amount of work required to grind out and polish away those milling tracks, most of us turners only fully tame a few millimeters or so on the tip of the flute with the intention of doing more work on them if and when required.

    What I have been doing is using the loaded buffer on a flute every three or four sharpenings and this is gradually extending the fully polished zone while also cleaning out any build up of crud there. When I do buff the flute, I do that before sharpening the bevel, not after. It is very quick to do with the contact time on the buffer taking only 4-5 seconds each time.

    This may also have the benefit of removing "those little fluffy, flaky bits of steel wreck on an edge" if they are there.

    I've been using the fine green compound, so might experiment with some coarser grit to see what difference that makes.

    I expect that spindle gouges would also benefit from this method
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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  3. #167
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    SC, USA
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    When I used super fine compounds and short buff times, I saw "no discernible difference" as well. Cheap, colored wax sold as buffing compound was worse. It left a pile of black waxy mess all over my tools that took paint thinner to get off.

  4. #168
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    Aug 2020
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  5. #169
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilS View Post
    I've been using the method for maintenance of bowl gouge flutes, not bevels. I experimented with the method on the bevels and found no discernible benefit, but many bowl gouge brands come with hectic milling/grinding tracks in their flutes that require considerable effort to remove them sufficiently to give an even edge.

    Given the tricky curvature in the flutes and the amount of work required to grind out and polish away those milling tracks, most of us turners only fully tame a few millimeters or so on the tip of the flute with the intention of doing more work on them if and when required.

    What I have been doing is using the loaded buffer on a flute every three or four sharpenings and this is gradually extending the fully polished zone while also cleaning out any build up of crud there. When I do buff the flute, I do that before sharpening the bevel, not after. It is very quick to do with the contact time on the buffer taking only 4-5 seconds each time.

    This may also have the benefit of removing "those little fluffy, flaky bits of steel wreck on an edge" if they are there.

    I've been using the fine green compound, so might experiment with some coarser grit to see what difference that makes.

    I expect that spindle gouges would also benefit from this method
    All your turning tools will benefit. As a turner you know there are times when you're turning some sh%t pine with growth rings 6mm apart or more and the tear out is crazy... Buffing the spindle gouge (I use the gouge to turn beads, you may use the skew which will mean a different approach) will eliminate most if not all that issue when turning beads... As I was saying in the turning forum, grey compound for the more intense turning tools - but that's for the time saving feature. White compound is probably better for the less intense turning and sharpening and produce a better edge

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