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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default Problems with the unicorn method of sharpening

    Hi all, I was interested in posts where Forumites had tried the unicorn method on their chisels and it was very successful.

    I tried it today on my old set of Narex chisels, which had a razor sharp edge to start with, hollow ground on the Tormek to 25 degrees yesterday, and honed on the leather wheel of the Tormek. The bevel edge was nice and shiny for about 1mm.

    After buffing as recommended for the unicorn method, the edge was not nearly as sharp to touch, in fact very disappointingly so. Obviously the edge had been rounded over.

    I used a 6" sisal buffing wheel loaded with white polishing compound on a bench grinder. I started by putting the chisel at a tangent to the wheel so that the buffing wheel sat nicely in the rounded hollow grind. I then moved the chisel handle down so the angle of the chisel to the wheel changed by about 15 -20 degrees. This should result in a 40-45 degree microbevel.

    I could not see the hairline microbevel.

    Could anyone please advise where I might be going wrong, and also how best to test to see if there is a microbevel?
    regards,

    Dengy

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    PM David W Dengy and ask him to reply in this thread. Have you looked at his YT video(s) on the subject?
    CHRIS

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,112

    Default

    Hi, Dengue - sisal wheels are too brisk and can actually beat the edge off of a tool, and even if they don't, they'll cut too aggressively.

    You want muslin or cotton that's stitched most of the way out (like an 8 stitch wheel or something) with a soft half inch poof of material outside of the last stitch.

    Felt can also batter edges (and generate a lot of heat). Really soft, but with some backbone / stitching just in from the soft part is what you want.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default Errata !

    Sorry all, I double checked the label and I was using a 6" loose leaf calico wheel. Would this be the casue of the problem with the cutting edge being dubbed?
    regards,

    Dengy

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,112

    Default

    could be - there's no backbone to work into with a buff like that to give you some control. you want something like this:
    Josco Stitched Calico Buff 150mm x 50 Fold - Josco

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,820

    Default

    Joe, I am not reading anything incorrect in your description. It just may be that you need to do this a few more times to get the feel. It needs only a light touch. The danger is overdoing the buffing, which is why a sisal or felt wheel does not work and a soft cotton wheel does.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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