Thread: VICMARC CBN Sharpening Station

Based on the Woodcut setup... see their manual.

https://www.woodcut-tools.com/upload...t_trugrind.pdf

... about 5" from the axis back, giving 1" to spare with an 8" wheel.

And, at least, the same in front of the grinder axis. That should allow the base plate on the gouge jig slide to fit in the available space.

The Vicmarc has manuals for its different models...

https://vicmarc.com/images/files/Grinding-System.pdf see page 4

Their slow speed grinder (the one with the two wheels on one end) already comes setup, so no useful information there, but the photos might provide some indication on dimensions.

https://vicmarc.com/images/Sharpenin...ion_Manual.pdf

I'll have a look at the Vicmarc slide the next time I'm around at my workshop and let you know the dimensions on my setup.

The slide can be pushed in when not in use so that it protrudes equidistant front and back.

Have a look at my comments on the Vicmarc gouge jig over in my reply to your thread over in the Woodturning forum.

Thanks Neil. I didn't think to look in the manual. The photos do help a bit. There doesn't look to be anything protruding out the back beyond the baseplate. If I had to guesstimate, the base would be around 300mm deep. I reckon it may just fit. Cheers.

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

If I had to guesstimate, the base would be around 300mm deep. I reckon it may just fit. Cheers.

Looked at mine and yes, 12"/300mm should do it... first pic is of the Vicmarc gouge jig slide and second is of the Woodcut slide next to the the Vicmarc in the position that it should be mounted in relation to the axis of the grinder.

There is some parallax error in the first photo and the 12"/300mm mark is about level with the back of my mounting board and the back of the CNB wheel is approx 3/4"in from the back of that board.

Vicmarc gouge jig slide.jpg

Woodcut gouge jig slide.jpg

Just tying a bow around this one for those in the future that may be wanting the dimensions like me.


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The footprint of the metal base in which grinder and jig sits on is approx 405mmW x 295mmD. And as I suspected, nothing protrudes past the base out the back. The motor does overhang about an inch on the right.



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So it fitted well on the mobile cabinet I built for it. The niche on the side was to house all the jig paraphernalia. It was all looking good until I realised I hadn't consider it's height. The switchbox on top of the grinder extends past the bottom-most table position of the Nova Viking. I may have been able to live with it but the Viking doesn't have much capacity between the chuck and the table. I anticipate having the table on the bottom most 95% of the time. In fact, I can foresee having to swing the table away and resting the workpiece on the base of the drill in which case the grinder will no doubt be in the way. I'm afraid I'm gonna have to find another spot for the grinder.

Can you mount the grinder on drawer runners so that when you want to use the drill you simply slide the grinder out of the way?

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Can you mount the grinder on drawer runners so that when you want to use the drill you simply slide the grinder out of the way?

I had considered something similar but with linear bearings instead. I discounted the linear bearings idea because I couldn't get it to work, but your drawer slides suggestion may work. I might go down that path if I can't find a suitable spot for it. Or I may build another mobile cabinet for it.

Most motor bases can be rotated to an alternate position.
In that case I would rotate it so the motor connection box is on the side facing the drill and run a PVC conduit to the opposite side for the motor switch.

I'm not a fan of having a grinder near where wood is likely to be located or worked. Metal dust can be picked up by the wood and if the wood contains tannins (ie most woods) ferrous dust will turn black. Below is what happened when something I put down on a surface that contained ferrous dust was then put down on this raw bench top I was preparing. Fortunately I was able to remove the stains with Oxalic acid but you dont need to be doing this on a regular basis.
PreOA1.jpg

Also the reverse. Sawdust next to a grinder is unlikely to ignite BUT you never know.

While on dimensions, if you do move the grinder what height will it be set at?

As a rule of thumb (but, we all have different sized thumbs), the axis of your grinder will be about the same as the axis of your lathe.

And, the axis of your lathe will typically be set about the height of your elbow, some like it a bit higher and some slightly lower. I put my hand on my opposite shoulder and that raises the elbow and that height works best for me for bowl/hollow form turning.

Originally Posted by BobL

Most motor bases can be rotated to an alternate position.
In that case I would rotate it so the motor connection box is on the side facing the drill and run a PVC conduit to the opposite side for the motor switch.

I'm not a fan of having a grinder near where wood is likely to be located or worked. Metal dust can be picked up by the wood and if the wood contains tannins (ie most woods) ferrous dust will turn black. Below is what happened when something I put down on a surface that contained ferrous dust was then put down on this raw bench top I was preparing. Fortunately I was able to remove the stains with Oxalic acid but you dont need to be doing this on a regular basis.


Also the reverse. Sawdust next to a grinder is unlikely to ignite BUT you never know.

Thanks Bob, but unfortunately rotating the motor would also affect the position of the CBN wheels which means the jig/tool rest holder would no longer line up. You raised a couple of good points which I'll take into consideration when deciding the location for the unit. I'm leaning more and more towards building another mobile cabinet for it and a regular grinder with a buffing wheel. Being on a mobile cabinet means I can locate or orientate the whole set-up depending on which I'm using so that the metal waste is sprayed away from the woodworking areas of the shop. Cheers.

Originally Posted by NeilS

While on dimensions, if you do move the grinder what height will it be set at?

As a rule of thumb (but, we all have different sized thumbs), the axis of your grinder will be about the same as the axis of your lathe.

And, the axis of your lathe will typically be set about the height of your elbow, some like it a bit higher and some slightly lower. I put my hand on my opposite shoulder and that raises the elbow and that height works best for me for bowl/hollow form turning.

TBH Neil, I hadn't given much consideration to the axis height of the grinder. Now that I'm leaning towards building a dedicated mobile cabinet for it, I'm thinking of making it extra low so that I can operate it whilst sitting on a stool. I dunno if that's a good idea or not, but I thought I may as well be comfortable when using it. The secondary reason for wanting to make it extra low is so that it stows under the overhang of my Shaker workbench.

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

I'm thinking of making it extra low so that I can operate it whilst sitting on a stool. I dunno if that's a good idea or not, but I thought I may as well be comfortable when using it.

Same principle would apply with the height when sitting... axis at about elbow height.

I would want to have removable handles (I do anyway for most of my woodturning tools) if I was sitting to sharpen... longer attached handles would get in the way. When you are standing you can step aside.

The reason I would not sit down myself to sharpen on those CBN wheels is that I would spend as much time sitting down and getting up again as grinding, especially if only sharpening one tool at a time... CBN is very quick.

I suggest you set up a temporary low level arrangement with a seat to see how it goes before making a nice mobile cabinet for it at that height.

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

Thanks Bob, but unfortunately rotating the motor would also affect the position of the CBN wheels which means the jig/tool rest holder would no longer line up.

Sorry I think you misunderstood what I said.
The motor f/foot/eet can be removed and relocated to an adjacent quadrant of the motor body.
This rotates only the motor - not the feet or the base so the jig stays where it is.

Sometimes the foot/feet looks like they are welded or stuck to the motor node motors but its usually just a coat of paint.

Thanks Bob. I think I finally understand your suggestion and that it would spin the motor around the axis of the shaft. Upon closer inspection I do see other feet mounting locations (see photo below) but I don't think they're viable options because the switchbox will get in the way. Besides, I think I've finally come to the conclusion that the whole unit will interfere when it comes to drilling into long workpieces especially when I have to sit them on the drill's base instead of the table. The more I think of it, the best solution really is another mobile cabinet for the sharpening station as well as a regular grinder.


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A couple of feet mounting tabs just below the capacitor.



Cheers,
Mike

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

Thanks Bob. I think I finally understand your suggestion and that it would spin the motor around the axis of the shaft. Upon closer inspection I do see other feet mounting locations (see photo below) but I don't think they're viable options because the switchbox will get in the way. Besides, I think I've finally come to the conclusion that the whole unit will interfere when it comes to drilling into long workpieces especially when I have to sit them on the drill's base instead of the table. The more I think of it, the best solution really is another mobile cabinet for the sharpening station as well as a regular grinder.


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A couple of feet mounting tabs just below the capacitor.

I reckon you could flip the capacitor location as well but I understand that there are other issues and I'd go with those.