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Thread: Weighing in on sharpening
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5th June 2009, 10:56 AM #1
Weighing in on sharpening
Read a few posts in this area and thought to start a new thread that will no doubt be picked apart, added to and debunked! - as there are as many ways as there are sharpeners,
The trick I like is to take a belt sander and flatten a section of the handle, then take a piece of rubber (I use a small diameter bicycle innertube) and lash the chisle to a stick about four feet long - the longer the better. With the grinder up about 4 1/2 ft high and a nail in the bottom of the stick, stuck in a shallow hole in the floor, grind the center of the chisle face and get nowhere near the edge. Granted, you get a very small arc to the chisle but not on the working surface. This gets rid of some excess metal.
I use waterstones as they cut quickly and are easily flattened. I have three stones, one coarse, one 800 grit (the workhorse) and one extremely fine. The coarse is never used for sharpening. It was first flattened on float glass and carborundum powder and is used only to flatten the 800 grit stone ( the 800 grit flattens the fine stone).
Float glass panes are made by floating lead glass on molten zinc - and is FLAT!
For chisles and plane blades I use the Veritas honing guide and buy chisles with the profile that works with it.
With new chisles/plane blades, get the back flat and mirroric, as that is the other half of the edge.
I get to know my steel by first putting on a high bevel and then lower it if I get chips in the blade - I don't bother with degrees of angle. My secondary bevel (micro bevel) is accomplished by sliding the tool 1 or 2 mils back in the guide.
Water stone are inexpensive, that is some are. My 800 grit was about $12 but my 3200 grit comes from one particular mountain in Japan and cost $40 twenty years ago.
Do not let your wet stones freeze.
No post is complete without a pic. And always shave a bit of hair from yourself!I'm both dyslexic and paranoid. I keep thinking I'm following someone.
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5th June 2009, 03:33 PM #2
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5th June 2009, 03:38 PM #3
Makes perfect sense to me. What's the issue?
"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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5th June 2009, 05:27 PM #4
Throw a little berley and come in spinner . . .
Makes about as much sense as every other sharpening regime that has been posted on this and every other Woodworking board.
Take mine for example, I have a White 80 grit wheel on my grinder for stock removal/establishing a bevel (Veritas Grinder Rest, normally 30 degrees), Wet and Dry for ensuring the back 1 - 2 mm nearest to the blade is flat and to begin the polishing up to 800 grit, then the two water stones 1000 & 4000 grit(all using the Veritas MkII guide), then the Veritas green on mdf.
Everyone has a differing method and everyone has an opinion.Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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5th June 2009, 06:13 PM #5
Perhaps some picture would help
Why would you destroy a perfectly good chisel handle by grinding some of it flat?
what? put the grinder 41/2 foot up from the floor on a bench
what? Drill a hole in the concrete floor so you broom stick with a chisel tied to it can reach the grinder on the bench at 4 1/2 foot
What the heck!
Why would you grind the crap out of the back of a chisel to get rid of excess metal
Or is he trying to wind people up ?
Andrew"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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5th June 2009, 06:26 PM #6
once the chisel is tied on the stick ya could use it as a flounder spear
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5th June 2009, 07:34 PM #7What the heck!"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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5th June 2009, 08:56 PM #8
I think he's taking about grinding the bevel, not the back. This is a... errm... "variation" of some jigs which are used for turning chisels, although they tend to be much more compact.
The longer the stick, the longer the radius therefore the flatter the arc that's being ground across the width of the bevel.
IMHO, only useful for prepping a chisel to roughly the right bevel angle (as he said: removing excess material) before using stones to bring it to final dimensions.
Personally, I'd rather use a tool-rest and Mk I eyeball. But that's my quirk.
- Andy Mc
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5th June 2009, 10:02 PM #9
ah like the true grind he didnt say that lol i was going ordinary chisel what the
"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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5th June 2009, 10:49 PM #10China
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The was jig around that mounted on the floor for turning chislels, a friend bought one used it once and put it on shelf in the shed as far as I know it is still there, after 13 years
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6th June 2009, 10:11 AM #11Senior Member
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This post might help, I think the jigs have some major similarities
Regards,
James
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12th June 2009, 12:36 AM #12
Since grinding the flat spot on the handle the chisle has been knocked off the bench a few times but has never rolled off.
I don't concern myself so much with the handle as I do with the edge.
One can certainly spend money on jigs to sharpen tools. Or one can use a 'trick' and save some money. "Watch the pennies and the nickles will take care of themselves."I'm both dyslexic and paranoid. I keep thinking I'm following someone.
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12th June 2009, 03:05 PM #13Member
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12th June 2009, 03:18 PM #14One can certainly spend money on jigs to sharpen tools. Or one can use a 'trick' and save some money."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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12th June 2009, 03:21 PM #15
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