Thread: Wood turning advice
25th Aug 2018, 07:02 PM #1Intermediate Member
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Wood turning advice
Only new to turning and using a diamond stone to TRY and keep my chisels sharp, but I want to buy a grinder and jig. Can I have some advice on bench versus wet stone grinders and choice of jigs.
I’ve had a look at hare and Forbes and like the wet stone record grinder, but not sure about the jig.
Any feedback on options would be great.
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26th Aug 2018, 12:17 PM #2
Never had a look at the Record wet grinder so looked at the online demo. Looks to be a better machine than the Sheppash I have. Wet grinders do a good enough job but it takes time setting up the jigs and each tool is a another setup. Another thing to be aware of is those jigs aint cheap so the overall cost kind of blows out a bit. I went down this road when I started turning but soon reverted back to a regular bench grinder with a white wheel so save time. I use a tilting tool rest and freehand sharpen but homemade jigs can be made for any tool you fancy. Fumbler just posted a good one.
Sharpening Set up
I found this site chock full of good turning advise when I started out.
Wood Turning Lathe tips, techniques, instruction
A sharpening system for turning tools is possible for about $100 if you work at it.
26th Aug 2018, 03:52 PM #3Taking a break
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- Aug 2008
It will take a bit of practise to get really nice results, but, as long as your tool rest is at the proper angle and you just follow the existing edge, you should generally get a decent outcome and a quick touch-up afterwards on a diamond plate will smooth out any unevenness.
If you're using HSS chisels, you don't have to worry too much about overheating the edge when dry grinding. HSS is designed to retain its properties even at red heat, so a little bluing on the edge doesn't matter (other than being a rude reminder that you need more practise )
26th Aug 2018, 06:33 PM #4
+1 from me, too.
A wet-wheel is lovely to have if you're sharpening plane irons or firmer chisels that are touched up only once every so often, but for wood-turning where you're pretty much constantly going back 'n forth to the wheel?
Have a look at Fumbler's recent setup
This is about as low cost as it gets while still doing everything that is required.
The basic slide suits most gouges and he has made a jig for gouges with swept back wings. For skews, scraper, etc, you can pretty much just do them with a bit of practice on the standard bench grinder's tool-rest, although it doesn't take a genius to make an adjustable platform for a bit more ease of use.
For a beginner, it can also be helpful to colour in the bevel with a black marker, so you can more easily see exactly where you're grinding.
- Andy Mc
27th Aug 2018, 07:06 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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- Apr 2011
- McBride BC Canada
Buy yourself a swing arm protractor so that you can measure the bevel angles of every edge.
I tuned up a nearly ruined set of a dozen big Sorbey. Every bevel angle was different.
I drew those on cards, matched the angles and did the job, freehand.
The angle part is always important so you can be consistent, all day long.
Buy a jig, but know what to set it at.
12th Sep 2018, 08:59 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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It wouldn't hurt to check out Vicmarcs website on their bench grinding equipment. if you're into dvd instruction, then have a look at Richard Raffan's the new "Turning Wood" dvd. He gives a bit of info on his Tormek and good info on bench grinding.
26th Sep 2018, 10:38 AM #7
This thread was a month ago, but maybe you're still looking.
I've got a simple tool rest on my grinder, and that's all I use. I find it's just too much mucking around to set up jigs for every different tool. I guess if you do a LOT of sharpening and need to grind quickly without thinking about angles, jigs are probably faster and less thought once they are set up. I have chisels, planes, wood turning chisels, carving tools, etc, so it's quicker to take a bit of time and care and think about what I'm doing with the grind than to set up a jig. I take the grinding very carefully, and always check which part of the edge is being ground as I'm working, and make sure the edge is ground evenly to maintain the angle. As for getting the exact angles, I will check it with a protractor every now and then, but most sharpens, I just follow what is already there. A simple toolrest can be easily adjusted to a particular angle if required. IMHO, most tools are not super critical with their grind angles. Knowing what the tool should look like is more important than getting the angle exact. I will even sharpen drill bits by hand without a jig. It takes a little practice, but provided the bit is 4mm or larger (i.e. big enough for my eyes to see), I've had better results by hand than with any jig setup I've tried.
A white wheel certainly makes a difference though - I would thoroughly recommend getting one.
For most tools I will mostly go to the waterstones and only grind every now and then, but turning chisels just get done on the grinder, because it's much faster.Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.
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