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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Oakhurst, Sydney
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    Unhappy Problems with my Bailey #4 smoother...

    Hi all.

    My old man gave me his Bailey #4 smoothing plane a while ago. I think the most recent patent date on it was 1910.

    I finally got around to stripping this plane down and restoring it. The sole was quite uneven, and required a lot of lapping on grit 80 to even get it mostly flat (though by no means flawless).

    I reassembled it yesterday, and polished it up. Looked nice. Then I let it eat some timber. After trimming up a little oak, I noticed a couple of hairline cracks forming on the sole, tearing out from the back of the mouth at the corners (behind the blade). They are a couple of millimetres long. I don't know if they'll tear out further or not, but I suspect this is not good. Any thoughts? Did I remove too much steel with my lapping (though it was necessary to get it flat)? Has this happened to any of you guys?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Default

    First question I'd ask is are you sure that they weren't already there? It's hard to imagine cracks showing up immediately like that, they usually develop over time. I doubt you removed enough metal with sandpaper to cause that kind of damage, unless you were at it for a very long time.

    Looking into the mouth and towards the back of the plane you should get an idea of how thick the casting is at the sole. It's hard to imagine it tearing. The cracks are more likely to be stress fractures caused through long term use. Perhaps your clean up has uncovered them?
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Oakhurst, Sydney
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    Default

    Thanks for that.

    I don't have the plane with me at my office (!) but I will have a look within the next few days when I get to my shed.

    All I know is: when I lapped this sole, it was flat, esp around the mouth. Now there are two fractures, and they are slightly raised. They look fresh. In any case, do you think it will still be usable, esp given that it is behind the blade, not in front?

  5. #4
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    Well in that case, it could be on the way out. I'd say the fractures are caused by the pressure on the frog when you plane and you might find that they get worse the more you use it. You can probably get it repaired if you want, I've heard of it being done but have not seen the results, except one at a market that was a bit ordinary.

    I guess #4s are common enough and so if it has sentimental value, stick it on the shelf and pick up another one at the markets for $30
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    West Pennant Hills NSW
    Posts
    12

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    silentC

    As a newbie I've started looking at some markets ... not sure how many there are on the NSW South Coast (your loc?). I've looked in Sydney and decent older no4 Baileys that I've seen tend to be almost 3 times that much.

    The blokes selling them usually assume I'm a 'collector' and try to steer me towards something else when I baulk at their old Stanley prices.

    Other Sydneysiders, what markets have you found to be a good source of planes, saws, vices, clamps etc?

    Cheers

    Tim

  7. #6
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    Aug 2003
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    That's the problem with cities, too many opportunists

    We have a market down here once a month at Candelo. Pickings are slim but I bought a #4 for $30 and a #3 for $25.

    I believe there is/was one at North Rocks on Sundays.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Oakhurst, Sydney
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    Thanks for your responses to my questions. I went home and had another look at my plane and I feel like A RIGHT ROYAL IDIOT. I don't know much about planes (as the following will reveal), but in my eagerness to rebuild and use my plane, I set the frog too far back.

    As a result, the blade was resting on the mouth, hence the pressure which caused the cracks. What a numbskull.

    I moved the frog forward so there is only about 1/2 mm gap in the front of the mouth, and the blade is firmly resting on the frog. I lightly lapped the bottom of the plane to flatten out the metal raised by the cracking, and set to work reusing the plane. The cracks are still visible, but no longer looking fresh and 'agitated' as they were before, and the plane is producing those lovely tissue-like fluffy shavings, and leaving behind a gleaming surface.

    Lesson learned, but what a way to learn it! Thankfully I think it will all be okay, despite the visible flaws which my experimenting left behind.

    Later,
    Green 'Blockhead' Woodchips

  9. #8
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    Jan 2005
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Woodchips
    Lesson learned, but what a way to learn it! Thankfully I think it will all be okay, despite the visible flaws which my experimenting left behind.
    These visible flaws are there to remind us of a lapse in concentration. I have a theory that every new plane rapidly accumulates a set number of indelible marks which reflect the learning curve of the user. The blood stained chisel reminds me to be careful of the edge, the chunk out of my #4 reminds me of when my son used it and the rough side makes me recall a poor attempt at squaring with the sole. Technically, these are known as "Doh!" moments.

  10. #9
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    You are very wise Oh master Groggy. Very profound words made me feel all Budhist.
    Boring signature time again!

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    GW

    Your #4 sounds like a Type 11 (1910 - 1918), in which case it is to be prized. The Type 11 and the Type 12 - only difference is the high knob. The Type 11 has a low knob - are considered the best users of the Stanley bench plane range. One reason is the full frog - no cutouts - which gives the blade better support. Look after it. It cannot be replaced by a common #4.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    You know you have one final option......before sending it to the scrap heap.......if the sole plays up again..........thats to attach a wooden sole to re-enforce........ saves on buying another, a working tool with sentimental value.......I did this with one of mine when I first started and it works fine.......I attached about 1/2 inch thick piece of hardwood, whose width and length was greater than the soles, with tapped deeply countersunk bolts and aruldyt.......then when set with flush bit in router cut the timber flush to the edge of sole......chisel out mouth slightly going in from top........true sole .......work mouth slowly to fine gap etc......end up with a sort of corrigated transitional plane. .........in a way it feels nicer to use because you've got wood on wood

    hey, don't laugh, it worked....... :mad:

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by apricotripper
    hey, don't laugh, it worked....... :mad:
    HA HAH HA HAH, I'm sorry, no really I am, I just can't help myself.
    Boring signature time again!

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by outback
    HA HAH HA HAH, I'm sorry, no really I am, I just can't help myself.
    No, your not......your only protending to be sorry.... .....I know......it'll take me weeks to get over this...... you.....you....YOOOOU cheeky bast* ...bugger !!!!!!!!!...... sniff sniff

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