Thread: Bench Grinder Multitool attachment

I would think they would have used a good quality spring that could handle the compression for long periods. Do they have spare springs available and are they easy to fit would be a good question to them.

I am tempted to get one myself, how have you found it so far?

G'day Knurl,

I have the same set up as yourself (even the grinder). I leave the wheel unlatched to avoid unneccesarily fatiguing the spring.

I guess I'll have to ask the manufacturer, but it does look like leaving it on the latch will kep the spring compressed and it may lose its elasticity. But it's a real pain pushing it in with my stomach (large as it may be) to re-engage the spring before replacing the belt.

Leaving the belt on all the time also keeps the "spring" compressed to a lesser extent and that's likely to be the norm in most workshops, so that's why I chose to keep it on the latch.

BTW I'm a newby to the multitool Benny but sofar it's been fantastic, especially for quickly trimming rough stock and (on fine grit) to getting a lovely finish on grain. The outrigger is great for curved sections but the diameter is a bit big for some tighter curves, where I resort to the dremel (if a bit slow).

I'm planning to build the sharpening jig (from a cupboard handle), mentioned elswhere on this site. For those who have read that thread, the Multitool belt-guide mounting screws must be used to mount the two "D" blocks. I haven't figured out how to do that part!

(See the thread in Homemade Jigs etc headed "Belt Sander Grinding Jig").

I've got exactly the same setup and they're the bees knees! I don't remove anything, ready to go at all times .
A bit off topic, I was shown a trick for changing those Velcro sanding discs...they can be a bit of a pain if you need to remove the work-rest each time. Cut a sheetmetal disc a bit bigger in diameter, with a finger tab protruding. Take off any sharp edges all around.
To use it, slip it in between the sanding disc and the Velcro on the machine, and when it reaches the bottom the disc will come free. Pull the metal and disc up and away. To insert a new disc, push the metal disc into position between work-rest and Velcro, and when its aligned slip a new sanding disc down until it too aligns. Press it onto the machine to keep it aligned, then withdraw the metal disc leaving the sanding disc behind. Sounds fiddly but works a treat. I have several now, of differing diameters for the machines at work.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Knurl

I
BTW I'm a newby to the multitool Benny but sofar it's been fantastic, especially for quickly trimming rough stock and (on fine grit) to getting a lovely finish on grain. The outrigger is great for curved sections but the diameter is a bit big for some tighter curves, where I resort to the dremel (if a bit slow).

I'm planning to build the sharpening jig (from a cupboard handle), mentioned elswhere on this site. For those who have read that thread, the Multitool belt-guide mounting screws must be used to mount the two "D" blocks. I haven't figured out how to do that part!

(See the thread in Homemade Jigs etc headed "Belt Sander Grinding Jig").

Knurl ,if you interested i have an original multitool grinding jig hardly used, for sale.Have moved on to gmc wet grinder,for tool sharpening , adopted a jig for it from WA.
Recently brought a Veritas MkII, practicing with it .Regards ,Bela

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

I've got exactly the same setup and they're the bees knees! I don't remove anything, ready to go at all times .
A bit off topic, I was shown a trick for changing those Velcro sanding discs...they can be a bit of a pain if you need to remove the work-rest each time. Cut a sheetmetal disc a bit bigger in diameter, with a finger tab protruding. Take off any sharp edges all around.
Cheers,

Thank,s for the great idea ,Andy.I will put it to use .I now have a multitool ,
a small ryobi ,and a gmc wet and dry ,and a gmc belt and disc grinder.
Ecept for the wet and dry all have discs, and were a pita to change the disc with the jig on ,regards Bela

Thanks Andy, that's a perfect solution for Velcro. Even without the bench in the way I have trouble changing pads on my HItachi orbital, the dust holes never seem to line up properly. Very fiddly.

I love the multitool. I have now had one for about 3 years and it has seen a lot of use (from wood to soft metals to hardened metals - even a little bit of glass.

It handled them all with ease.

It does need belts that aren't all that commone (I buy mine from WA knife making supplies (can't remember the proper name).

I run everything from 40 grit to 600 grit and even a scrotchbrite belt.

When I take the belts off (everytime I close up the shed) I leave the piston on the latch and it is still as strong as ever.

Cam

Knurl, for putting papers on your orbital (ROS?)

Quick - stick pencils, dowels or similar in the holes on the backing pad & slide new disk over them into position.

Slower - draw around a disk onto a bit of ply, also draw circles inside a coiuple of holes. Cut out ply, drill holes in the correct spots and glue in a couple of short dowels. To use, put a sanding disk over dowels and align with base of sander.

Chamfer dowels first (before gluing in) with pencil sharpener to ease lining up.

Can also put sharpened dowels into every hole in jig for using unpunched sanding disks on sander. Line up sander carefully with jig and push down to punch holes through disk.


HTH............cheers...........Sean

scooter, you are a genius. What clever ideas. I don't know which ones to try. Maybe I'll try them all. Amazing what you can do with some little useless dowels. Now if only the dust extraction actually worked and didn't end up all over my work instead of in the bag.

The ideas weren't mine, dave, glad to be passing them on though, could hear your frustration!


Cheers................Sean

Hi all

Have had multitool on a grinder for 25 years.
Never remove belt when not in use

Still A1 never a problem.

Multitool likely the best power bench based tool you can put in a workshop.
Would be 2nd on my list after a good bech drill press.

If you get a dud belt or tear a bit of edge keep it.
You can run a belt stripped to eg 1 inch or less wide to get into smaller edges..

I usually buy rough or med belts..
Why.. ? after wearing down they become a finer belt anyway.
Saves holding stock of lots of sizes.

Watch older linish belts seen at junk sales etc.
Glue can go bad..
And good belts have arrows to show correct rotation so belts hold up longer.


ALWAYS start linisher up standing to side.

have had belts crack apart on startup..
like being whipped with a sandpaper strap ouch

Nick Tassie

That is why I take the belt off when I am done with it. It is not the machine that suffers wear that way but the belt - thus inducing the flying apart. Although, to be fair, that can happen anyway.

Cam

Cam,
On a different machine admittedly, we had trouble with belts regularly flying apart on a big linisher at work. A new batch solved the problem. The adhesive used to join the belts was failing, and we put it down to a shelf life factor. They are stored high on a mezzanine floor near the tin roof and stayed there too long...that's what we reckon anyway, and Nick's comment seems to back it up.

Cheers,