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14th May 2013, 10:08 PM #1
Bench grinder tapered spindle attachment
Got a Ryobi 6 inch bench grinder that I' ve been running a grey wheel, a white wheel and a right hand tapered spindle which runs a buffing wheel. The white wheel had to be replaced but its replacement has a slightly bigger bushing that is not a snug fit on the tapered spindle. The previous wheel was a nice tight fit over the tapered spindle so I could run both. Thought about wrapping some tape over the hexagonal tapered spindle to make it a better fit but worried about safety even though the wheel is contained by the right guard. Is there a way to still run both?
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15th May 2013, 01:12 AM #2.
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Let me get this straight - you were running a white wheel directly riding on buffing wheel hex spindle?
If so what was stopping it from moving sideways?
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15th May 2013, 08:59 AM #3
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15th May 2013, 09:50 AM #4
I am definitely not one for the over the top OH&S crap that is forced upon us on a daily basis by over bearing controlling care bear types.
However, saying that i'm fairly confident in saying that sounds a might unsafe to even me.
If the wheel slips in the grooves is has worn there's the real danger of the wheel exploding.
Just a thought.
Cheers
Steve
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15th May 2013, 10:15 AM #5.
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As fineboxes says, that was a wheel explosion waiting to happen. You were lucky it was a 6" wheel so the back forces/leverage would not have been as great as an 8" wheel.
Grinding wheels should be snug fitting all the way around and held in place by light sideways pressure.
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15th May 2013, 10:22 AM #6
As I said I've been running this arrangement for probably 5 years, I suspect the centrifugal force kept the wheel from moving much. The wheel was hard up against one of the large washers and didn't move sideways at all. However I would still like to run the buffing wheel so is there a safer way to have both wheels and the buffing wheel?
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15th May 2013, 11:03 AM #7.
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16th May 2013, 11:44 AM #8
I thought I might be able to turn up a threaded sleeve to take the place of the outside nut and run the buffing wheel off the sleeve, only problem is there's not a lot of thread to work with.
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16th May 2013, 10:00 PM #9
Personally I would mix stone wheels and buffs or even allow them in the same room unless the buffs are stored in airtight bags and you have no other storage options. Five years of metal polishing taught me that you don't mix belts, wheels, pads etc between different metals, and you don't allow the buffs anywhere near them. All of the abrasives, and the metals they are working, shed microscopic particles which will embed themselves in your buffs and scratch work you are trying to buff. Wheels, belts discs etc rasnge from 32 to 600 grit, the compound used on buffs start around 2000 and go way finer, so a small amount of crap on the buffs can undo prep work very quickly. Using wheels, belts, buffson various materials can also lead to disaster, polishing SS with gear that has previously been used on mild steel will embed microscopic MS into the surface which will show as rust spots in about 6 months, working stuff to be plated with gear that has previously worked SS will embed SS particles which inhibit the plating procces leaving microscopic pinholes in the plating, more rust in 6 months from the MS surrounding the particles not being fully plated, any contamination at all will stuff up anodising.
As others have mentioned, there is no safe way to mount wheels etc to a grinder other than the way specified in the machine and wheel instructions. Drive to the wheel must be by the drive washers, not by the shaft, taper hex etc where the slightest knock can split the wheel and explode it.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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