Thread: Router table top

My router table was one of the first things I built when I started setting up this workshop.

I built a timber base out of 2x3 pine and put 2 drawers in the bottom. I made it slightly lower than my table saw - makes a good outfeed extension for larger jobs. I put 75mm dia castors on it to move it around (2 at the front lock). It now has a 4" DC port in the back and a door on the front - gets 90% of the dust, and nothing is left on the top.

The top is about 700x600mm and made from a sheet of 16mm MDF. I cut a hole in the MDF just large enough for the router base, then glued a sheet of white surfaced hardboard sheet. 1/4" bolts are countersunk & epoxied in from the top to hold the router base. Lock nuts up from underneath.

I then glued a sheet of laminate over the top of it. The fence is a piece of 50x50mm 3mm angle aluminium with tassie oak screwed to the face - 1 piece with a section cut out half way through the centre for bit clearance, all the way through the tassie oak & alu fence directly behind the bit (about 15 x 50mm) to allow the DC to suck air from behind the bit as well.

I just picked up some 6mm high density engineering plastic sheet to screw onto the face - slippery as hell. Costs around $90 a square metre, but enough for the fence is less than $20.

The fence clamps to the table top using a couple of blocks screwed underneath either end (fence is around 100mm longer than the top), slightly thinner than the top. Bolts go through a larger 12mm ply piece underneath the blocks, through the blocks & alu fence, thread out the top. I used a couple of large plastic wing nut things on the bolts to clamp it. The ply has stick on non-slip tape where they clamp underneath the top. Holds well.

I'm not 100% happy with it - but I never am So far though it's worked really well, has stayed flat, is more than slippery enough and I'm not planning on replacing it anytime soon. Hope that helps.

I'd say you are on the right track and offer the following suggestions. Hinge the top by a full length piano hinge and case locks on the opposite side. A couple of stays or props saves holding it open with your head. This makes changing bits and those fine adjustments easier. Working on you knees and in poor light is for the young guys. Give some thought to the opening in the table top for the router bit. Ideally a couple of inserts of different diameters is better. Consider mounting a switch on the table as this makes it easier to operate.
Don't mount the router in the middle of the table as you will be stretching all the time when you use it. Think about what type of wrok you will be doing and mount it accordingly. If you plan on getting an INCRA jig or the like in the future then this should be investigate so you get the router position right. These jigs require quite a length between the mounting point and their fence.
regards,
Rocket

A good slab of mdf is a great cheap flat top for a number of things.
Thicker is better If you can get a part sheet or an off cut or 32mm. she'll stay flatt without any help.

Your mate with the 400 grit must be keen my melamine tops are slipery enough as they are.

Iff you are that keen I'd try a cutting car polish, preferably without silicone.

I think it was bruda or doorstop who had a fit last time someone sugested ruining a perfectly smooth top with some track.

Seems to make sence.

Cheers

Cheers to "R" too.

"R" is delighted to be acknowledged. It gets worse. We have the same second initial too. The other "R" thinks that is great because cheques payable to me using my initials are, effectively, payable to her as well.
Thanks for the comments. I have taken them in and will go shopping for materials on Saturday. I can get 32 mm MDF from my favourite supplier and, even better, he will cut a sheet to sell me the size I want.

I like that idea of polishing the melamine with shoe polish, but it's worth mentioning that many of the clear polishes are waterproofed with silicone. I'd prefer not to have too much of that on my work.

G'day
Keep in mind that 16mm mdf will bend under the weight of a large router. This is what I use but is adequately supported in my case.
For the fence I cut some slots and use 3/8 bolts with washers and wing nuts to adjust. My top is removable, I clamp it in the vice vertically to change bits and adjust, quite easy.
cheers
Rod