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Thread: Buffing wheels?

  1. #1
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    Default Buffing wheels?

    G'day,

    About to set myself up with an 8" Abbot & Ashby b/grinder for hollow gringing my chisels, plane blades etc. Naturally I'll have a white aluminum oxide wheel, I'll also have on it a buffing wheel for lapping chisels and stropping my lathe chisels, so my question is, which is better a shaped felt buffing wheel as shown, or one in leather?

    Once I get the b/grinder it'll be one major piece of machinery to go and my shed is all fitted out. (the major stuff anyway )
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waldo
    G'day,

    About to set myself up with an 8" Abbot & Ashby b/grinder for hollow gringing my chisels, plane blades etc. Naturally I'll have a white aluminum oxide wheel, I'll also have on it a buffing wheel for lapping chisels and stropping my lathe chisels, so my question is, which is better a shaped felt buffing wheel as shown, or one in leather?

    Once I get the b/grinder it'll be one major piece of machinery to go and my shed is all fitted out. (the major stuff anyway )
    so many opinions on how to bloody sharpen. here's another.....

    I like felt. have 2 grinders. I'd just buy sizeable ones from supercheap or someplace like. Probably get 2 for the price of that abbot and ashby. Just make sure there not those small motor 2c ones.

    for one grinder have your AlO wheels on.....running towards you....stick that on the wall, about shoulder height........and stick the other grinder on the wall too, beside the other, but with it running away from you.

    mount 2 x 8" ALO wheels on the one running forward. One of the wheels is meant to remain square, the other you can shape with a diamond stick.

    mount that felt carving buffing wheel you've got pictured and a regular hard felt on the other grinder....

    I'd remove the tool rests (and even the wheel housings).....this way you can learn to freehand grind and buff in a comfortable postiion, with your eye in close to what your doing.....fastest sharpening I know.

    I'm getting there with the dovetail plane. The nickers housing done, but I've had a hiccup with the blade.....ran out file thick enough. Think I may have found a solution though....getting there though.

  4. #3
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    Default

    I'll second Jake's recommendation of hard felt. One other reason I like felt is I think it is harder to dub over and edge with the felt. I also like the feel of felt vs. leather. And yep, make sure the felt wheels are running up and away...

    My old grinder I had set up for honing used hard felt wheels on one side and a couple shaped leather wheels on the other. I use to do a lot of carving and the leather was good for the small V-tools and such.

    Take care, Mike

  5. #4
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    Where do you fine the hard felt wheels?
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  6. #5
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    Regards,
    Ian.

    A larger version of my avatar picture can be found here. It is a scan of the front cover of the May 1960 issue of Woodworker magazine.

  7. #6
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    What about here in Oz?
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers
    What about here in Oz?

    I got mine from Carbatec.


    Peter.

  9. #8
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    Yep, Carba-Tec sell the Veritas ones.

    http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/ind...=270_1950_3300
    Regards,
    Ian.

    A larger version of my avatar picture can be found here. It is a scan of the front cover of the May 1960 issue of Woodworker magazine.

  10. #9
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    Cool, ta.

    I've been playing around with one made of MDF today.

    Seems to do the job.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  11. #10
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    Can I also suggest the Veritas buffing compound to use with the felt wheel. It contains Chromium oxide which gives one of the finest cutting grit sizes you can get. http://users.ameritech.net/knives/grits.htm I have found the Multi-tool grinder attachment with sharpening jig to be a very fast & accurate way to do the bulk removal of material when re-cutting the bevel on chisels & plane blades. A good solution if your not experienced with freehand grinding.
    "the bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"

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