Thread: Burnishing rod

Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

I think you're missing the point here, spending money on tools is not to be avoided, rather it should be enbraced with open arms (and a pocket full of cash and a few credit cards in hand ). Of course if you're saving money by not buying the burnisher in order to spend more money on another tool purchase then that's okay.

Mick

Amen.


Cheers...............Sean

I propose to conduct the experiment tonight (unless I have to stay chained to the computer at work). I waited this long to check that no-one had a slam dunk answer one way or the other to the original question.

As I have several old files with dodgy teeth (sounds like someone I know), it might be possible to make a burnisher along the lines that China suggested. Any suggestions on how to polish it after the teeth have been ground off?

Don't worry, any money saved on a burnisher will be part of the wood/tool slush fund and will be spent in an appropriate fashion ....

Last night was taken with repairs for SWMBO, so the 'sharpenig steel as burnishing rod' experiment was postponed until that was completed (a bit like Space Shuttle launches - had to wait for a cold front to pass...).

So does it work? Yes after a fashion.

I squared the edge on my stone and then used a steel (not smooth but very old with very worn "teeth") to draw and turn a burr. It enabled the scraper to take fine curlies from a piece of radiata and a piece of 'Tassie oak'. It was easier to use than a screwdriver shaft (because it was harder). However, it seemed to me that the edge was lost pretty quickly (ie I got sawdust rather than shavings fairly quickly (say after 7-8 x 2 foot passes).

I sharpened again (pretty quick) and got a nice burr - when I looked at it under a magnifying glass and shining a light along it, it did look a little rough and didn't shine like a good polished microbevel.

Verdict - it can be done and it may be that with practice I may be able to get a better burr that might last longer. If it is always going to be serrated as mine is, it might always make a slightly rough and fragile burr, but maybe that is just technique and experience.

Is it better than a burnisher? I don't know - maybe I'll have to buy (or follow China's suggestion and make) the burnisher to find out ......

Last night was taken with repairs for SWMBO, so the 'sharpenig steel as burnishing rod' experiment was postponed until that was completed (a bit like Space Shuttle launches - had to wait for a cold front to pass...).

So does it work? Yes after a fashion.

I squared the edge on my stone and then used a steel (not smooth but very old with very worn "teeth") to draw and turn a burr. It enabled the scraper to take fine curlies from a piece of radiata and a piece of 'Tassie oak'. It was easier to use than a screwdriver shaft (because it was harder). However, it seemed to me that the edge was lost pretty quickly (ie I got sawdust rather than shavings fairly quickly (say after 7-8 x 2 foot passes).

I sharpened again (pretty quick) and got a nice burr - when I looked at it under a magnifying glass and shining a light along it, it did look a little rough and didn't shine like a good polished microbevel.

Verdict - it can be done and it may be that with practice I may be able to get a better burr that might last longer. If it is always going to be serrated as mine is, it might always make a slightly rough and fragile burr, but maybe that is just technique and experience.

Is it better than a burnisher? I don't know - maybe I'll have to buy (or follow China's suggestion and make) the burnisher to find out ......

Last night was taken with repairs for SWMBO, so the 'sharpenig steel as burnishing rod' experiment was postponed until that was completed (a bit like Space Shuttle launches - had to wait for a cold front to pass...).

So does it work? Yes after a fashion.

I squared the edge on my stone and then used a steel (not smooth but very old with very worn "teeth") to draw and turn a burr. It enabled the scraper to take fine curlies from a piece of radiata and a piece of 'Tassie oak'. It was easier to use than a screwdriver shaft (because it was harder). However, it seemed to me that the edge was lost pretty quickly (ie I got sawdust rather than shavings fairly quickly (say after 7-8 x 2 foot passes).

I sharpened again (pretty quick) and got a nice burr - when I looked at it under a magnifying glass and shining a light along it, it did look a little rough and didn't shine like a good polished microbevel.

Verdict - it can be done and it may be that with practice I may be able to get a better burr that might last longer. If it is always going to be serrated as mine is, it might always make a slightly rough and fragile burr, but maybe that is just technique and experience.

Is it better than a burnisher? I don't know - maybe I'll have to buy (or follow China's suggestion and make) the burnisher to find out ......

Booger of a stutter you have there JMK89.