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Thread: Carba-Tec Shopping Spree
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27th June 2007, 03:36 PM #61
I never thought it would happen but you guys are actually better at confusing me than my better half is when we start having a D&M
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27th June 2007 03:36 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th June 2007, 03:39 PM #62You joint a face, then joint the edge square to the face, then joint the second face square to the edge. If both faces are square to the edge then the two faces must (and I mean mathematically MUST) be parallel.
Plane B is square to Plane C
Plane C is not parallel to Plane A
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27th June 2007, 03:39 PM #63
Only here would you find two people willing to argue about something that neither of them ever intends to do.
Makes me proud...
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27th June 2007, 03:42 PM #64Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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27th June 2007, 04:07 PM #65
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27th June 2007, 04:07 PM #66
Is it Friday already?
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27th June 2007, 04:10 PM #67
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27th June 2007, 04:30 PM #68SENIOR MEMBER
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My Question, if the board has a 1" bow in it and is 35mm thick timber, and you take the bow out of it, wouldn't you end up with a piece of timber 10mm thick?
How would this be any good to you if you need a piece 35mm thick?
Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
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27th June 2007, 04:36 PM #69How would this be any good to you if you need a piece 35mm thick?
You have a couple of choices - you either end up with a very long, very thin board, or short thicker ones. What I tend to do is cut to the length required first and then plane it flat. You lose less that way. But if you need a longer length, then it has to be done. I'm usually working with 50mm boards, so 35mm is achievable, depending on the length I need.
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27th June 2007, 04:43 PM #70
Geoff, you should get a board 22mm thick and slightly shorter than its original length.
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27th June 2007, 04:50 PM #71
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27th June 2007, 04:52 PM #72
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27th June 2007, 05:02 PM #73
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27th June 2007, 05:14 PM #74
I could be wrong here but I would cut the wood in method 2.
Or maybe I did not understand Geoff's question.
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27th June 2007, 05:30 PM #75
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