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Thread: Chainsaws in Australia
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28th May 2015, 12:34 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Chainsaws in Australia
I was recently made aware that there are laws governing the use of chainsaws and, apparently, you're supposed to be licensed to do so.
Can anyone comment on this law? Does it apply to all chainsaws or is there a differentiation between various sizes or between gas and electric, etc?
Is this law enforced? How difficult is it to get the license?
I got some killer Macadamia that I need to put the chop on soon so I can get it drying.
I'm in QLD, by the way.
Thanks a lot in advance.
Cheers,
Luke
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28th May 2015, 12:49 AM #2.
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It's not a licence it's a chainsaw operators ticket.
ssee http://www.workspacetraining.com.au/...ainsaw-ticket/
Certain workplaces and orgs (FESA, Councils etc) require this ticket so operators are covered by insurance and for public liability.
If you are a tree lopper your insurance might specify that all your employees need this ticket as a starter.
If you are going to be dropping or pruning trees especially around power lines there is more specific training and certs for those activities.
Unlike an electrical licence, a private chainsaw operator operating on private property does not need one. If you injure someone or damage property and it went to court, having a ticket might offer some protection.
If you want to use a chainsaw on say council property they may require you to hold such a ticket although I have never heard of anyone in WA being asked for one.
I did the course in 2007 (back then it was a one day course) to keep SWMBO happy - the course was so basic I could have easily taught it.
You are supposed to take the course every three years to stay current but I'm not bothering to keep it up.
However, if you are not at all or only semi familiar with chainsaws its definitely worth getting a ticket.
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28th May 2015, 08:42 AM #3
Bob L's comments are spot on. Almost a decade ago we were going to trial an arrangement with a tree lopper here to gather and process timber from urban salvage in his yard. His first condition, he must sight tickets and "accredit" a few operators - only approved & trained chainsaw operators, with full safety gear - NO ONE ELSE! Obviously it didn't get off the ground as only a few of us were prepared to and could meet his requirements.
I did an employer run three day chainsaw & power scythe (large brush cutter) "ticket" in the 1980's. Best three days I have ever spent. We were taught safety first, full maintenance of equipment right through to felling & breaking down trees. 1 full day on felling alone.
Best advice I can give any one using a chainsaw - get trained - correctly!Mobyturns
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28th May 2015, 12:11 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Ok so if I run a chainsaw on my property in Queensland without a chainsaw ticket and don't hurt myself or anyone else in the process, have I broken the law?
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28th May 2015, 12:29 PM #5.
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28th May 2015, 01:22 PM #6
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28th May 2015, 01:40 PM #7.
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Sorry I should have been a more specific - see below
From the FESA Website
Tools and Equipment.
Can I use a chainsaw, plant or grass trimmer, orlawn mower?
Yes. These activities can be undertaken in suburban orbuilt up areas, but not in bush or other areas where theiruse is likely to cause a fire. If possible postpone this workas the risk of starting a fire is extremely high.
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28th May 2015, 08:31 PM #8
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28th May 2015, 10:44 PM #9
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1st June 2015, 07:10 AM #10
Chainsaws should have spark arrestors. It's worth checking they are functioning and clean. Carbon tends to build up in them and slow down the saw.
Few tree loppers actually have chainsaw tickets, by the way. I'm an arborist and don't have one. They get to be redundant at a certain point.
The only real reason for them is when employing people who can't prove a lot of experience in tree work: get them a ticket to cover your backside. That, and when working on building sites, contracting to government departments for tree removals and pruning and so on.
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1st June 2015, 10:52 AM #11.
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Two changes to chainsaw design improved their fire safety
1) Exhaust spark arrestor
Problem there is that all the chainsaw modding websites say "remove for improved performance" (all of my milling saws have the arrestor removed)
Also arrestors can burn out - see below
2) Exhaust location
Many older saws had the exhausts on the side/underneath which directed the exhaust downwards or off to the side and when hot put down on dry grass could start it smouldering.
To add fuel to the fire the fuel tank was on the opposite side so when the saw was tipped on its side spilt fuel could dribble down over the hot exhaust .
These days the exhausts are up top and out front so less likely to come in contact with flammable
Chainsaw caused fires are relatively rare but it still happen.
http://www.abc.net.au/news/2008-03-2...t-fire/1080096
And from a NZ fire Service bulletin
Incident " A tree faller was burnt when his chainsaw caught fire.
Circumstances The tree faller refueled his chainsaw and felled a radiata pine.He had just begun to trim it when his chainsaw caught fire. Thefire spread to his clothing and he suffered burns on his left leg.
InvestIgatIon: No obvious electrical faults, such as bare wires, were foundafter a mechanical check of the saw. However, a furthermechanical inspection revealed that the fuel adjustmentsetting was too lean and the spark arrestor was burned out.Hot carbon from the exhaust system had ignited either spiltfuel or fuel leaking from a loose fuel cap.
Department of Labour advice
Rules as stated in the: Approved Code of Practice for Safetyand Health in Forest Operations
Following these rules will prevent accidents like this fromhappening to you:
- Always adjust the fuel settings to the manufacturer’srecommendations. Incorrect tuning to a lean mixturecauses the engine to run too fast and overheat.Adjustment to the manufacturer’s settings will reducehot carbon emissions from the exhaust system.
- Check the spark arrestor screen every 2-3 days. Aclogged-up screen will reduce engine power. Clean thescreen as necessary and replace it if it is damaged orworn. This will prevent hot carbon being expelled intothe work area.
- If you spill fuel while refuelling, wipe it up. Make sureyou screw the fuel tank cap on tightly.
- Move at least 3 metres away from the refuelling sitebefore you start your saw.
- Protective leg wear can become contaminated with fueland oil, so you need to clean it regularly.
Fire retardant chaps are also now available - not just for firies BTW.
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1st June 2015, 11:07 AM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Even spark arrestors can only do so much.
I've started "fires" with my saws merely in the act of falling. Extra fibrous barked spp. the likes of E. obliqua (stringy bark, brown-top, messmate etc. etc.) seem especially prone.
In these instances, it's not the sparks that seems to be the issue, but more hot exhaust gases. Usually I've noticed it when the muffler is close to or in contact with tree bark during horizontal cutting (i.e.falling) in big timber. This is most often when gases are concentrated at close range on the same area for longer periods. When hot gases meet dry, finely fibrous bark in warm & low humidity conditions, then guess what?Sycophant to nobody!
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1st June 2015, 07:05 PM #13
I tried for over a year to do a chainsaw course in Hobart, while all my safety gear and new saw sat in the shed. At $400, and only running three times a year during the week, I never could manage time off to coincide with the course dates. I ended giving up and watching a bunch of YouTube videos on safely using the saw, and started cutting.
I'd still love to do a course, but if they were more accessible to the home user, cost and date wise, it would help.
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