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15th November 2019, 08:04 AM #31
You've also purchased a later model Makita too? Hmmm...
As posted previously I considerably reduced the run out in my Chinese router by fitting a genuine Makita collet; this was a relatively cheap ($21) option to determine if the issue was in the machining of the collet or the shaft. Would you please be able to expand on your test to measure the run out & vibration of the Chinese unit using all three collets; and how the 3DTek collet performs in the genuine Makita router compared to the OEM one?
As I have two Chinese router bodies if there is a noticeable difference between the Makita collet and the 3DTek in the Chinese router then I might splurge and invest in one of those too.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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15th November 2019, 09:50 AM #32Senior Member
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Do you think the 1/8" collet would be suitable for Dremel bits? For the very rare occasion I need to make small grinds or cuts, I could try hold the trim router by hand and use it that way?
Or am I being stupid, because for $40 I can get a whole Ozito dremel with parts.
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15th November 2019, 10:31 AM #33GOLD MEMBER
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15th November 2019, 09:54 PM #34Senior Member
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All I can say is As far as trimmers go- some are worse -but good - still waiting to get feedback -still waiting etc. The metal bodies are a clear advantage conpared to the plastic -accuracy etc. - chances the guts of it is still the same.Some brands you run gfrom . In this category I couldn't recommend anyone from experience. You might pay twice the $ and get the same kinda crap. Mostly used Makita trimmers at work -but I don't pay for them -or the replacements?
One of my best VALUE buys has been a Ozito random orbit sander -has taken a thrashing over the years - even worn out it's main bearing -on the random orbit bit (Was the gruntier version) have known Makita ones to die within half the time. _Absolutely not a recommendation for the brand. Have had total from them as well- (heavy duty ) jigsaw had molten plastic coming down the shaft- was replaced once -the next one had it too the shaft wandered about as this happened. I presume that the molten plastic WAS the guide for the shaft. Still using the same blade that was used with BOTH of these saws -lots of life left in the blade!!!!! Other Ozito issues - battery drill -battery melted!, drop saw Vauge as with the settings. But the random orbits were good.
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16th November 2019, 05:15 PM #35
Photos to share. Please keep in mind that I have done my best to obtain as accurate a result as possible for run out on three collets in two machines, however my set up is rudimentary at best! I did redo all measurements, and they were repeated.
All collets and machines were cleaned with compressed air.
The machines are the Makita RT0700CX (on left) and the Chinese equivalent.
The custom 1/4" collet came from 3DTek. They machine them for CNC use. There is also a 1/8" collet, which they sent as a gift!
This is an example of a replacement on eBay ...
It is difficult to say whether it is any different from the Chinese version as the image is much larger and shows any roughness. The photo does look rougher than my version (the one that came with the router)
These are the collets examined (Chinese, Makita, 3DTek) ...
The 3DTek was a tight fit ...
I could not see much difference in the collet nuts (Makita on right). The threads on the Makita seems a little cleaner...
The set up ...
Above ... the router bit used was a 1/4" carbide upcut. This was cleaned and polished before hand. I did have a straight "set up" bit, but this was found to have higher roun out, and discarded.
Readings: All bits are zeroed, and then the widest deviation recorded (below) ...
Makita with Makita collet :
Makita with 3DTek collet:
Makita with Chinese collet ...
Chinese trim router with Chinese collet ...
Chinese Trim router with Makita collet (I did this three times - same result!) ...
Chinese Trim router with 3DTek collet ...
There are some slightly variable results with the 3DTek, but the pattern is clear (I think ..): the Chinese trim router is decent, while its collet is not. Perhaps it depends on the seating of the collet. I tried a few twists, but did not get different results in my measurements. The Makita collet seems very good and not really that different (no better, no worse) than the 3DTek collet. Looking at the rougher finish in the eBay version, i would not purchase one. I suspect it is the same, or no better, to the collet which came with the Chinese router. I did purchase the 3DTek, and that has now gone into the Chinese machine.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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16th November 2019, 05:56 PM #36GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Derek. That's conclusive enough for me. I ordered a genuine Makits 1/4" collet earlier this week and now have the confidence to invest in some 3Dtek collets. Still concerned about possible run-out problems with any collet that is only a cone (because of larger internal dimensions not allowing the collet to be full depth) but I'll post my results here when I have something to report.
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16th November 2019, 07:15 PM #37Senior Member
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16th November 2019, 07:29 PM #38
I’ll take a stab at 0.09mm; I suspect the DTI was set up at zero but with a full sweep on the dial already. When you’re expecting sub-millimeter measurements you just ignore what the counter says and watch the needle.
Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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16th November 2019, 07:45 PM #39
Thank you very much Derek, for that comprehensive test. Your test rig isn’t any less rigid than what I used and I’ll take your measurements as valid as my own.
A real surprise to me was your reading of the OEM collet; that one was much worse than mine! It’s also good to see that my experience fitting a genuine Makita collet has also been replicated in your test.
My unit is currently on loan at the moment; fitted with the plunge base and a 5mm straight bit it is perfectly sized for one of the ladies at the Bundaberg Woodworkers Guild. She was too nervous of normal small 1/4” routers but this is giving her the confidence she needs to move up to larger machines.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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16th November 2019, 09:13 PM #40Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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15th October 2020, 06:38 PM #41New Members
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Hi guys!
Been following this thread keenly and using this as reference to get my first router - I only do very basic DIY stuff so went with this Chinese eBay one, which arrived just last week from a Sydney based eBay seller.
IMG_1976.jpg
I also picked up a genuine Makita 1/4" collet (from C&L) to correct the run out from the supplied Chinese collet - it just arrived today!
HOWEVER, I can't seem to get the Makita one to fit in the router?
IMG_1972.jpg IMG_1975.jpg
(Chinese vs Makita)
By eye the collets seem to match, but the calliper shows a .03mm difference...
Chinese Collet
IMG_1970.jpg
Makita Collet
IMG_1971.jpg
Did anyone else come across this issue - because it seems all those who bought it on this thread had no issues whatsoever getting the genuine one to fit. Don't want to force it, and I'm thinking shaving parets of the genuine collet off completely negates the point of getting it in the first place to correct for runout...
Perhaps the Chinese one I got is different to what you guys got? Any ideas would be appreciated!
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15th October 2020, 10:27 PM #42
Thought to say (a bit separately) is that I just received the 6mm and 8mm collets from Adams Bits - Collets for Makita RT0700
They are el-schmicko!
I didn't expect too much, but these are the bees knees. Their fit and finish is bang on. They are AS GOOD as the fine-finished jobbies I used with the 1/2" under-table spindle.
I shouldn't be so surprised really, as this place sells bits for CNC hackers that use their Makita trimmers in hack-up CNC platforms. They can be just as obsessive as the pros.
I've no means of measuring run-out (the dial indicator is packed in the warehouse) but if I were to eyeball them and "guess" Id say they aren't quick-pump-out-bulk-crap. Both fit into the spindle ppeerrffeeccttllyy.
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15th October 2020, 10:37 PM #43
WKW87 - I just so happened to have the router out near me, so I measured the original collet on a genuine DRT50 (the cordless version of the RT0700) and it is 9.49
The 6mm collet from Adams bits is also bang-on 9.49, no deviation/ovality
Curiously, the legit Makita collet is blackened.... not sure what that is about (anodised? ... its strongly magnetic, so its definitely steel)
Pic 1 ADAMS
Pic 2 MAKITA
IMG_20201015_223202.jpg IMG_20201015_223310.jpg
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16th October 2020, 09:53 AM #44
Hi Wkw47 , had exactly the same problem with the Makita Collet replacement, doesn't fit and it is .03 mm oversize,on the collar that is the first part to engage with the router, disappointing, did my $25. thanks Ross
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16th October 2020, 05:49 PM #45
Perhaps, on the knock-off router, one could increase the internal diameter of the spindle by a smidgeon by putting a wee bit of 400 wet and dry onto a dowel (saw in half a bit, wedge it in, like a single-flap flap sander) - carefully insert into the offending area at the desired angle/place and turn the router on for a quick blat.
This would remove a hair of material off the inside. It would allow you to fit the genuine collet.
Not quite enough? - 3 or 4 blats....
I know this works as I once had a Triton TRA001 router that had a bit of run out that was irksome. I saw a dude on youtube (a machinist) use a jury-rigged jig to mount a conical abrasive stone into a Dremel. The jig kept everything stiff and a few simple bolts allowed excellent alignment. On went the router, on went the Dremel and the grinding stone took an absolute smidgeon of material off the inside. It worked like an absolute charm. I can't remember the final number, but it was absolutely tiny.
The sandpaper-on-a-stick is a cheap version of this.
Let me see if I can find the video.
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