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28th December 2014, 06:17 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Do a comparison
Take it back to the supplier, but look at another saw of the same model to compare your baseplate before trying to return your saw.
Would love to see a close-up photo of your baseplate.
I can't imagine a manufacturer having such a rough surface, unless there is a removable film for protection during shipping that hasn't been removed.
Alan...
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28th December 2014 06:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th December 2014, 06:44 PM #17Intermediate Member
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- Jun 2012
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- Cooroibah, Queensland
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28th December 2014, 06:48 PM #18Intermediate Member
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30th December 2014, 11:08 AM #19Intermediate Member
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30th December 2014, 11:44 AM #20
I'd be very tempted to take that back with a "Is this normal????" question.
(If I had an old saw base like that, I'd just draw file it then give it a quick sanding)
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30th December 2014, 01:59 PM #21
I agree. Try taking it back and point out the rough base as the problem. There is an obvious ragged edge at that screw hole.
Last resort is sand it yourself then apply some wax.
Hope things work out.
Regards
John
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30th December 2014, 07:36 PM #22Intermediate Member
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Cheers guys.
I'll take it back tomorrow and see how I go.
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30th December 2014, 08:56 PM #23
I see that Trade Tools also have an 1100W version of your saw with a 40 tooth blade as standard and a steel base plate. Maybe that would be a better option for you should you not have any joy with your base plate problem tomorrow.
https://www.tradetools.com/product-r...ular-saw-190mm
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31st December 2014, 11:50 AM #24Intermediate Member
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6th January 2015, 04:11 PM #25Intermediate Member
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My local Trade Tools were closed over Christmas and re-opened yesterday.
I took my saw in. They were surprisingly helpful.
The guy looked at my base plate, then had a look at the base plate of a display model.
The display model, which I assumed had never been used, HAD THE SAME ROUGH SURFACE!!!!!!
He then took back my Renegade and offered me a 185mm Makita 5740NBSP if I paid the $21 gap.
Not my preferred saw, but as I only intend to be cutting 12mm pine ply or similar, I accepted.
It definitely has the alloy base plate that I wanted, for use against long saw guides, etc.
It has a 1050w motor, which should be enough for what I want.
The main problem is that the motor overhang is only 8 mm above the bottom of the base plate. So I will have to make the guide out of fairly thin material (say 6mm).
Thanks again for all the help and advice.
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6th January 2015, 04:41 PM #26In pursuit of excellence
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6th January 2015, 05:12 PM #27GOLD MEMBER
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As you are cutting ply etc I would reduce the depth of the blade through what you are cutting. This will easily allow the guide to fit. The theory is that less depth means a shallower angle of teeth cutting which means less tear out. There are other schools of thought which say to always cut full depth. Use whatever works best for you.
Further on reducing ply tear out, use good quality masking tape and cut through that or score your line first with a Stanley knife to cut through the top fibres. Bear in mind that most blades are 2.8 to 3 mm thick so score on the edge closest to your guide.
Let us know how you get on.Regards,
Bob
Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.
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6th January 2015, 06:13 PM #28Intermediate Member
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