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9th September 2010, 12:27 AM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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I wasn't referring to a 60 mm depth specifically - there is always this one with 85 mm cut and still less than half Festool price.
TradeTools Direct - Serious Tools...Seriously Discounted!
Girl's tools? Better let Festool and the women on this forum know that the TS-55 is limited to them.
Now, I don't know too many people who have more Festool gear than me, so I can assure you I am more of a fanatic than most. But I am not going to close my eyes and not point out curious pricing that Festool imposes in this country on some of their gear. And for those who do pay full asking price each time, Festool shareholders in Germany thank you.
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9th September 2010 12:27 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th September 2010, 07:21 AM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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- Oct 2008
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these days, i get all my festool accessories shipped over from the uk.
at the current rate, it works out around half price plus shipping of course.
i also buy from the usa and get family to ship over here too.
festool australia may not be the biggest market but it sure is the richest!
justin
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9th September 2010, 08:02 AM #18Novice
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- Sep 2010
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- Auckland, NZ
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9th September 2010, 10:45 AM #19
Actally I did mean parallel. The raised section of the jig serves as the guide and the saw runs in the rebate formed by raised and lower sections, using the edge of the saw base plate as a reference. If the blade disc is not parallel to this edge then the blade will be skewed in the cut , bind and try to steer the saw either through the guide or away from the guide. Similar situation to setting a table saw so that the blade disc is parallel to the mitre slots and fence.
I understand your bit about geting the blade perpendicular as well, but if needed you could make a guide set up for a non perpendicular cut.
With the guide system, when you trim the guide with the saw initially, it establishes the cut line for aligning and clamping the guide to your layout line and it acts as a defacto zero clearance to minimise chipout, so one pass in a non perp mode would destroy both of these for perp mode, hence suggestion to make a seperate guide for each non perp application. Would not hurt to make a template first to use to set the saw angle and then store with guide for reuse later.
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9th September 2010, 11:15 AM #20Novice
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- Sep 2010
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- Auckland, NZ
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- 10
Oh - I assumed that the blade would always be parallel to the base plate edges - I guess not, on cheaper saws. If they were not parallel, I can imagine one would be faced with all sorts of difficulty when using a jig.
I understand what you mean about a non-perp cut destroying a perp guide. I guess that's one of the cool things about the Festool and Makita plunge saws - regardless of blade angle, it cuts on the identical place - ie right against the guide rail. I guess the solution, if not making guides for non-perp cuts, is to use an offset guide - and measure accurately.
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9th September 2010, 01:24 PM #21
Na, How accurate do you need it to be, 1degree off in a 12mm deep cut couldn't be measured with most tapes, and a lot of eyes probably including mine these days.
If you never need to cut at anything but a nominal 90deg, set the saw once and leave it till it becomes obvious that it's out, then reset it and check the guide at that point. If you need to be able to work at odd angles on a semi regular basis, make a template to set the saw, set the saw, make the guide, and keep the guide and template for next time. If your sure there won't be a next time you can chuck the guide. The beauty is that you have the option, you don't have the option with a dedicated track saw.
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17th October 2010, 06:51 PM #22Novice
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- Feb 2008
- Location
- Victoria
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- 12
Anyone know if these things are GMC quality? Or better? or even worse?
Tossing between one of these, the makita and the smallest festool.
Got about 5 or 6 rooms in front of me to either refurbish or complete. The immediate job is a large built in wardrobe. Tempted to get the festool and say well it would cost more than that to get someone to come out the 40 km and do the job.
However the festool is a thousand and the Chinese one 400 dollar.
Anyone used this Chinese one from tradetoolsdirect? 600 dollars is 600 dollars.
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25th October 2010, 09:26 PM #23Novice
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- Feb 2008
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- Victoria
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- 12
Well bought a makita from Toolstop in the UK for AU$475 including postage and don't seemed to have incurred a GST.
It has cleared customs in Australia anyway. Looking forward to using it. On balance, think it is the best value available for the diy operator.
The cheapest in Australia was $799 ebay. It had two tracks though. Against one for the import.
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26th October 2010, 08:26 AM #24Member
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- Mar 2009
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- Sydney, Australia
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26th October 2010, 01:02 PM #25Novice
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- Victoria
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27th October 2010, 08:19 AM #26Member
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- Mar 2009
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- Sydney, Australia
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- 92
I had an online chat with their customer support, here is the answer
Our carriers have been overcharging us so we have had to review our shipping prices due to the fact that we have been making a loss on all our foreign shipping.
btw their online chat support response is amazing quick
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27th October 2010, 12:41 PM #27Novice
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- Feb 2008
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- Victoria
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- 12
Oh. Have to get lucky sometime. Wouldn't over charging mean cheaper now? I might be looking at it wrong.
Just taken delivery. Have to put another plug on or get an adpater. It's 240 volt o'k though.
Here is (link)
one on ebay in Australia for 830 dollars including postage.
Which is only180 odd dollars more than the Toolstop price.
Anyway, in built wardrobe here we come. With Toolstop can only say what a worry free experience it has been with updates on where the package is at all stages.
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27th October 2010, 12:58 PM #28Member
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- Mar 2009
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
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- 92
manygeese,
Have fun with the new toy, please post some feedback about the Makita.
Ya I know a few eBay seller are selling that saw, although their prices are not that special compare to any tool shop.
I'm yet to decide
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1st November 2010, 08:04 PM #29Novice
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Victoria
- Posts
- 12
Only been cutting mdf and pine but worth every cent, ecsk. Built four and half of 6 draws, (900 mm x 550 x 250) and it just makes it so easy. I rough out what I want about 10 mm over size with a standard circular saw and then use the plunge on tracks to get things precise. I clamp the piece I'm cutting to the bench but you don't have to worry about the track. Runs along so easily.
As I posted earlier, if you have a need for cutting sheets accurately, it's going to pay for its self quickly. I would imagine it would cost the best part of 500 dollars to pay someone to make six draws so even if you forked out a grand for a festool, you could justify it before to long if you have the work for it. Beats clamping a straight edge and using a regular circular saw by so much it isn't funny. Would still be interested to know if the Chinese copies are any good but very happy with what I've got.
Got an AEG router that I'm not quite as comfortable with but that's another story.
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