Thread: Which Compressor?

Gidday Keepa

Check out here:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ht=compressors

and here:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=25140

Hope this helps

Regards Lou

Cheers Lou

I probably should of had a bit of a search myself. Anyway thanks for doing all the hard work. I now have a bit of pondering to do before I purchase my compressor!

Thanks

KeepaTalk

I too am at the research phase for another air compressor. If portability is what you need then weight is a big consideration, & the belt drives weigh heaps more than direct drives. There's no doubt the belt drives will deliver more air & last a lot longer, but for me portability is the biggest issue & this is my choice ; http://www.peerlessproducts.com.au/air/new/1
It will handle a framing gun no worries & you can drag it all over a building site because its so portable- try that with a belt drive! For you're needs it will be enough. If however you don't need portability, then you can go for a belt drive unit, & if you will only need very occasional portability then get something with a smaller tank (say 40 - 45lt) & a free air delivery of no less than 175lt/min, look here at the TM10 http://www.pilotair.com.au/prod/trademaster.htm
or one of the bigger units from either of these manufacturers (Peerless or Pilot) if its going to live in the shed.. They're Aussie companies & they make good stuff. Also a tip, its a lot less confusing to work out the air delivery capability of compressors if you look for FAD - Free Air Delivery. This is the amount of air the unit can push out through the outlet pipe, as opposed to the theoretical volume calculated by the piston volume. All good manufacturers will or can quote this figure, & it eliminates the ########.

If you want a realy good compressor buy a Clisby Australian made I have 10cfm one 20years old used commercialy still going strong.

Can I suggest, Keepatalk, that you buy a good quality one. It doesn't really matter if it's belt or direct drive. The el cheapo ones start self destructing as soon as you turn them on. Compressors are one of those machines that can last for twenty years if it's well made. All you need to do is check and change the oil in the pump, and drain water out of the tank every now and then. With moderate use and in a low humidity climate this is once a year (if you keep an eye on the oil level).

Be prepared to spend around $300-500 on a small direct drive one and around $600-900 on a small belt driven one. Stick it in the corner and it'll be reliable for years. If you're mainly using a nail gun the compressor will have an easy life. People only really get serious about power when they have to spray cars and need to do it in one hit.

Most people use Nitto-style fittings and 10mm hose. Oh, and one last thing. Compressors leak, and you can't stop them.

If you eventually buy a bigger stationary compressor as i would because it will last longer and long air hoses air cheap, elevate it in the workshop. When you have done that remove the drain valve and extend it with a piece of pipe and refit the drain valve in the end of that. The reason? the condesate sits in the drain pipe and not in the tank. If the drain is in the end of the compressor and tilt it slightly towards the drain. Again you will get rid of the condensate more quickly and more completely. Buy a good compressor and it will last forever. Mine is a Pulford single cylinder and the last time I was at Pulford they were renovating the same compressor for their museum! It has a Model A Ford piston in it and is still going well.