Thread: A Better Coping Saw

Finished the trial saw tonite with a light coat of boat soup…the one with the worst piece of wood and as light as I dare make it. Goes to a finish carpenter pal tomorrow at coffee …a gent doing trim the old-fashioned way in high-end homes…with instructions to use it hard and report back.







We’ll see how it holds up.

Wow

Perhaps I should also make one ....... one of these days.

Very good Bob

Now why didn't someone think of that before??

Thanks again Bob, for your always interesting notes. I've been thinking of doing a coping saw, might try one like that.

Originally Posted by AlexS

Now why didn't someone think of that before??

Oi did! About 12 yrs ago - sitting on the dunny, at the time, (when I get my best ideas!)
Had just had the 2nd cheeep metal coping saw fly apart after a few months' use, and was thinking that there must be a better way. I happened to have access to a friend's metal lathe, so was able to make some brass fittings. I like Bob's addition of the pin on the far end to allow easy turning of the blade - 10 out of 10!
My frame is Blackwood, and looks a lot lighter than Bob's, but Blackwood can be a pretty tough wood. Bob's looks like walnut, which is probably a bit more brittle, especially a figured piece like the pic. shows. I'm also tensioning with a bit of venetian cord, which wouldn't be as powerful as his screw, but seems to be adequate.
I've used it a lot in the intervening years, and can attest that it's infinitely better than the metal things. The throat is slightly deeper, too, which doesn't hurt.
Cheers,

My stuff isn't anything new, as Ian demonstrates.

This one is just a lighter and more efficient evolution of frame saws I've been making for decades outta scaps...the first ones being copies of somebody elses. They are all frame saws, but with different functions.



Coping and Fret Saws



Tage Frid Danish Bowsaw and English Turning Saw



Resaw.

Without rawhide, which doesn't stretch, the Spanish Windlass designs don't tighten as easily, completely or precisely as quarter-inch drill rod and 1/4X20 threads....and the drill rod doesn't weigh enuf more to matter. When you make yours, make a couple and if you want more weight down low, either leave more meat there or drill holes, add some molten lead, and cover with bungs.

The wood in this one is old-growth Pacific Madrona...a bit heavier and harder than beech...featured in these articles:

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultim...c;f=4;t=002338

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/U...=1&t=009419&p=

Hi Bob,
Yeah, the man-made cord isn't the best - it was only put on as a temporary measure, but works well enough, so I've never gotten around to fixing it. I'll get hold of some rawhide and replace it, sometime. I've used a bit of wire through a 1/4" bolt with wing-nut (ike one you've shown) on a bigger bowsaw and it works well, but looks a bit crude. Have often thought of making a tensioner out of 3/16 brass rod. Not as strong as your drill rod, but ought to be able to apply plenty enough tension. I thought it might be too top-heavy, but if you find a thicker rod ok, I should try it.
Cheers,

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