Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 20
Thread: dangerous zero insert plate
-
1st February 2006, 08:47 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Lake Macquarie
- Posts
- 864
dangerous zero insert plate
i made a nice zero insert plate for my tablesaw from a piece of teak, i sat the fence just on the edge when i raised the blade to make the cut so it would not fly up, good so far, but when i turn on the saw now the plate wants to jump up and attack me, did i do something to offend it or is my plate just a tat loose...
looks nice though.
could someone please enlighten me...Hurry, slowly
-
1st February 2006 08:47 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
1st February 2006, 08:52 PM #2
Did you faithfully follow the old plate's profile? If it is too loose, you can shim it with masking tape.
Greg
-
1st February 2006, 09:02 PM #3
Hi La Huerta!
There's generally a spring steel tongue on the forward edge and a retaining screw on the rear of any insert, precisely to prevent it making a bid for freedom.
Does the standard one have such an arrangement? Any ZCI should have the same.
Cheers!
-
1st February 2006, 09:36 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Lake Macquarie
- Posts
- 864
no the standard one has no such arrangement, so i did not think of that at the time, but it does have a 1/2 in wide blade hole...hence the pursue of a new plate.
Hurry, slowly
-
1st February 2006, 09:47 PM #5
Can you screw it down?
The insert on my old shopsmith table saw has counter sunk holes in it so it is held down with counter sunk screws.
<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
-
1st February 2006, 10:02 PM #6
Making an insert out of anything other than plywood invites a possible dent in the forehead. Wood moves and it can't be stopped so when that piece moves and pinches on the blade you have a problem. Ply (the better the quality the more stable the insert) on the other hand doesn't move so you have less chance of having a possible kick back. You could also screw a small tongue on the back of the insert to help stop it from wanting to kick back.
-
1st February 2006, 11:48 PM #7
La Huerta,
when I made my Zero insert plate I drilled 4 holes, one for each of the support tags that are under the plate and used largish counter sunk screws to hold it down. Works a treat and only takes a few secs to undo when changing blades, which for me seems like every time I want to cut something!
Regards
Vasco
-
2nd February 2006, 12:12 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Lake Macquarie
- Posts
- 864
screwing down sounds like the way to go, i'v got little supports under there...i might even do a ply one too, did'nt think of wood moveement...did'nt really think at all
if fact i cont evn ty[pe straiht latey .. !?Hurry, slowly
-
2nd February 2006, 08:44 AM #9
Mine are made from merbau and are not screwed down. Haven't had one fly up at me yet. I made them a firm fit. I also drilled a 4mm hole in the edge at each corner and used a small plug cutter to cut some 4mm rubber plugs from an old tyre which I pushed into the holes and trimmed off just proud of the surface. They're a nice tight fit, quick to change and the rubber plugs hold them in place.
"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
-
2nd February 2006, 06:47 PM #10
Large washer on the far edge hooks under the ledge and holds mine in place. No screws, pops out easy when I want to remove it. so far hasn't threatened to take flight.
Tex
-
5th February 2006, 08:02 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Lake Macquarie
- Posts
- 864
the large washer on the far edge did the trick mate, i also gave the timber a little tap undernieth around the edges to swell it out a bit and it's a nice tight fit, it must be happy as it did not lunge out at me this time...
many thanks to allHurry, slowly
-
6th February 2006, 08:05 AM #12Originally Posted by silentC
I had a similar problem. No matter how well I cut the wood there was always a little slop in the insert.
To fix this I added thumbtacks on the side of the insert at the point where the curve starts and these were placed at all four points where the curve starts.
I also used thumbtacks to adjust the height if there were discrepinces in the thickness of the board.
I'm heading out to the shed in a few minutes so will get you some piccies.Dust Mite...Terrorising noses for the discerning...
Pirongia Pens & Woodcraft
-
6th February 2006, 08:49 AM #13SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Lake Macquarie
- Posts
- 864
thumb tacks...
don't you just love how the simplest ideas solve the biggest problems...
la HHurry, slowly
-
7th February 2006, 09:38 PM #14
As promised here are said piccies of ZCI, with thumbtack shims. Sorry I was a bit late with these. Got sidetracked and made a new mailbox. Gonna post a piccy or two as well
Dust Mite...Terrorising noses for the discerning...
Pirongia Pens & Woodcraft
-
8th February 2006, 07:08 AM #15SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Lake Macquarie
- Posts
- 864
sounds like your on a roll with the piccy posting...
many thanks, i'll do this to keep it all nice and tight...
la HHurry, slowly
Similar Threads
-
dangerous zero insert plate
By la Huerta in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 1Last Post: 1st February 2006, 09:35 PM -
Table Saw Insert Plate too low
By Rookie in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONSReplies: 9Last Post: 31st January 2006, 02:33 AM -
potentially dumb question about router table insert plate
By Zed in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 12Last Post: 3rd October 2004, 10:55 PM -
Review: Veritas Router Base Plate from Lee Valley
By silentC in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 15Last Post: 20th August 2004, 09:17 AM -
Router plate and insert ring height fixed
By Intheshed in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 2Last Post: 25th May 2004, 10:08 PM