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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Thanks Bohdan, I just saw those 180 grit on Amazon

    Amazing what one can find after a 5 second search! I'm so lazy!


    One thought/question, to all, especially those metal heads amongst us.... is there any point (haha) of:

    1 - getting the geometry perfect with a machine such as the DD, then
    2 - sharpening the tips (edges? word?) by hand using a high grit sandpaper


    Just like our blades. It makes sense that a drill bit is nice and sharp, or am I missing something?


    (curse this thread, now I feel like going and sharpening all my drill bits this arvo.... )
    I have a DD500DX and it's the best investment I have ever made. It makes drills scary sharp, but it's best feature is the ability to split the point after sharpening. This feature reduces the effort required to push the bit into anything.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    NSW
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    37
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Thanks Bohdan, I just saw those 180 grit on Amazon

    Amazing what one can find after a 5 second search! I'm so lazy!


    One thought/question, to all, especially those metal heads amongst us.... is there any point (haha) of:

    1 - getting the geometry perfect with a machine such as the DD, then
    2 - sharpening the tips (edges? word?) by hand using a high grit sandpaper


    Just like our blades. It makes sense that a drill bit is nice and sharp, or am I missing something?


    (curse this thread, now I feel like going and sharpening all my drill bits this arvo.... )
    I don't think having the edges (flutes??) scary sharp is of any real benefit though, especially when drilling metal. go scrape/dig a nice sharp chisel against some mild steel and feel how quick that sharp edge dulls then realise you have a bit spinning at 1000rpm with a heap more force and think of how quick it will dull those edges.

    If i remember its more about the geometry (ensuring the relief angle is correct) then actual sharpness.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
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    3,543

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    If I worked in a variety of materials, a power drill bit sharpener might be cost effective.
    My Machinist's Handbook specifies 5 different tip angles for effectiveness in plastics, steels, stainless steels, wood and other metals.
    I just buy another bit, sharpen that, use it and promptly forget which one it is.

  5. #19
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    Apr 2011
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    se Melbourne
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    62
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    Purchased the Drill Doctor and have no regrets. Probably the equivalent of the Total Tools machine. While I can do split points it is a bit too technical for me. Just touching up the bits has made a big difference to there operation. Will I make my money back in savings probably not. (Original cost about $350). But it will stop me buying so many drill bits.
    Biggest down side is not been able to bits smaller than about 1/8", or short bits.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Forest Range, SA
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    165

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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Just after I wrote my last post I went to a hardware store which is not that far from H&F so I popped in to check out their drill $79 bit sharpener and ended up buying it.
    Despite being mainly made of plastic it seems reasonably sturdy although I do wonder if the chuck will lasting term - maybe those who have had one for some time can comment..
    I'm really keen to hear what you think of it, as I'll also get one if it seems passable for the money.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,757

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beardy View Post
    Just looking at them Bob, is the $20 replacement wheel the same as the one that comes with it? It kind of reads that it is an option extra/ upgrade?
    It's the same wheel.

    Played around with mine a bit more today.

    I have several sets of 0.1mm increment bits between 1 and 10 mm that are usually reserved for holes that will be threaded. Those that are above 6m and sharpened by hand still drill very close to their rated hole diameter but those less than about 6mm can be a frustrating 0.1 to 0.2 mm over size. This is because my eyes are not able to pick up if I have taken the same amount off each side. The drill sharpener definitely helps with this.

    For cylindrical items that fit in a metal lathe and need accurate holes drilled through (or close to) the central axis an approximate drill followed by a boring bar is more accurate but the smallest boring bar I have a 6mm so cannot use these or holes smaller than this.

  8. #22
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    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    It's the same wheel.

    Played around with mine a bit more today.

    I have several sets of 0.1mm increment bits between 1 and 10 mm that are usually reserved for holes that will be threaded. Those that are above 6m and sharpened by hand still drill very close to their rated hole diameter but those less than about 6mm can be a frustrating 0.1 to 0.2 mm over size. This is because my eyes are not able to pick up if I have taken the same amount off each side. The drill sharpener definitely helps with this.

    For cylindrical items that fit in a metal lathe and need accurate holes drilled through (or close to) the central axis an approximate drill followed by a boring bar is more accurate but the smallest boring bar I have a 6mm so cannot use these or holes smaller than this.
    I worked with a toolmaker who used a jeweller's loupe to sharpen number drills on a grey grinding wheel.
    CHRIS

  9. #23
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    I worked with a toolmaker who used a jeweller's loupe to sharpen number drills on a grey grinding wheel.
    Good point - I have a set of magnifiers gathering dust that I should use. Even using my reading glasses would help.

  10. #24
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    Apr 2005
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    Warragul
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    68
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    577

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    I posted this ( Multisharp drill bit sharpener replacement collet ) yesterday and was not surprised that nobody replied but this unit is surprisingly good and for only $44 from the green shed is not bad value and has served me well for years. It can even do brad point and spade bits but as I've found out if you lose a part for a cheap unit like this then you basically have to buy another one. Like many things these days, its a consumable.
    The Total Tools, Hare and Forbes versions look like a step up but once again I'm concerned with durability and replacement parts. Anyone own one? I also noted on H&F site that they say the unit can sharpen from 3mm to 13mm provided the drill is at least 85mm long. I'm not sure I've ever seen a 3mm drill bit 85mm long? So in reality it won't do small bits

    The drill doctor is completely out of my league.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handyjack View Post
    Biggest down side is not been able to bits smaller than about 1/8", or short bits.
    I don't sharpen those less than 3mm.... I buy these as 10-packs for $1.75 to $3 with fourteen cents (!) delivery.

    They are excellent. They last well, have nice big flutes.

    10Pcs 0.3mm 3mm Drill Bit Micro HSS Twist Drilling Bits


    When done, put them in the recycler


    edit - these are an eBay equivalent for those who prefer a local neck to strangle --> 10pcs 0.3-3mm Micro HSS Twist Drill Bit Straight Shank Electrical Drilling Tool | eBay

  12. #26
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    Jun 2005
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    Helensburgh
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    I don't sharpen those less than 3mm.... I buy these as 10-packs for $1.75 to $3 with fourteen cents (!) delivery.

    They are excellent. They last well, have nice big flutes.

    10Pcs 0.3mm 3mm Drill Bit Micro HSS Twist Drilling Bits


    When done, put them in the recycler


    edit - these are an eBay equivalent for those who prefer a local neck to strangle --> 10pcs 0.3-3mm Micro HSS Twist Drill Bit Straight Shank Electrical Drilling Tool | eBay
    What is the quality like Evan, drilling wood is one thing but drilling metal is another and I do a lot of that. Lately I have been considering giving myself a present and buying a full .1mm set to 13mm, I would like Dormer but Suttons might have to suffice.
    CHRIS

  13. #27
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    Feb 2016
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    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    What is the quality like Evan, drilling wood is one thing but drilling metal is another and I do a lot of that. Lately I have been considering giving myself a present and buying a full .1mm set to 13mm, I would like Dormer but Suttons might have to suffice.
    I'm sorry but I've no means to compare, as I use them only for timber.

    I'd wager that the Suttons would be better than Chinesium


    I don't think serious metal workers looking for 0.1mm accuracy in a complete 13mm set are going to spring for an extra-cheap bulk pack expecting too much from it.... bbuutt, they DO work very nicely on wood. I did a lot of drilling on one commish and they held out well.

    You could give one set a crack though. $2.13 delivered shouldn't strain the budget ttttoooooo badly

  14. #28
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    I bought 1 t0 6mm, and 6 to 10 mm sets, in 0.1mm increments from Mcjing in about 2006. Have drilled a plenty of hard stuff with them, including lots of Stainless and Bisalloy, without any problems. When drilling metals I do use lube/coolant in most cases, especially on larger bit sizes.

    Have misplaced and broken a few and replaced these from various sources. I'd say in most cases of breakage was operator deficiency rather that the bits themselves.

    As far as replacements go, if I'm in a hurry and they have the size I might buy just the standard Suttons from Bunnings and these don't appear any different to the McJing drills. At other times I will buy better replacements on line. The Sutton Cobalts are definitely a step up from standard Suttons. I've bought a few of these to drill chainsaw bar noses but the best thing I've found for those is a touched up masonry bit.

    The main difference I've notice between the Mcjing and my old imperial P&Ns (set bought in 1967 plus many dozens from FILs shed) is the old P&Ns are tougher and need touching up a bit less often than the Cheap sets, about the same as the Sutton Cobalts.

    I notice the difference a bit more between old P&Ns and my 13 to 25mm MT set that I got from H&F. The old P&Ns I borrowed occasionally from work never chipped (maybe I've been more careful when using them) where as the ones from H&F have occasionally chipped. Recently I bought a set of reduced shank 13 to 25 mm bits on special from CTC tools in HK and these appear to be a step above th H&F set.

    Like any gear the key thing is to keep them touched up and if you can do it, doing this by hand appears to be significantly quicker than an electric sharpener.

    I also have a really cheap set of 0.4 to 3mm in 0.1 mm steps - these are used in my electronics shop mainly on plastics so I went for the cheapest I could find. they came as a 10 per each size set so I don't bother to sharpen. I lose way more of these than I break

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    2,406

    Default Sutton bits are fine no need to oversharpen

    Gidday

    When I did my appreanticeship as a boiler maker we learn to sharpen bits by hand (Its hard and once your hand gets out after extended periods it gets harder)

    They just need a lick n theres no need to get them razor sharp they just need to be able to pull swarf and indicate a cut

    We used Sutton bits exclusively and they remain my fav Bits

    IF you want accuracy you need to ream and use a hole centre bit that doesent flex to kick off check out Youtube there's some great step throughs on how to do this

    centre drill - YouTube

    Regards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  16. #30
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    Apr 2011
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    se Melbourne
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    Just don't be in a rush to receive those eBay bits. Delivery could take 30 days, but expected delivery from today 14 June, 2021 is given as between 2 July (3 weeks, not bad) and 20 August (10 weeks ). Typical of Chinese suppliers.

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