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28th August 2006, 11:54 AM #1Quantum Field Theorist :-)
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Electronic Braking on Makita SCMS?
I recently purchased a Makita 10" SCMS (LS1013),
and used it seriously for the first time yesterday.
I like the electronic braking feature which makes
the blade stop spinning within a few seconds after
power is released. But after a couple of hours work
I noticed that the braking wasn't working so well.
Then a little bit later it seemed to stop working
completely, and the blade kept spinning for ages
before slowly coming to a halt.
Concerned, I tried to peer under the blade hood
to see if anything was obviously amiss, and I jiggled
the blade side-to-side by hand (gently). I was able
to jiggle the blade several millimeters laterally
(measured at the bottom). This seemed rather too much
to my way of thinking. I would have expected much less
side-to-side play in the blade for a Makita tool.
But then, when I attempted another cut, the electronic
braking suddenly started working again, and everything
seemed to work fine to the end of the job. The slight
jiggle seemed to have fixed things, at least superficially.
Questions:
1) Has anyone else had a similar experience with the
unexpected failure of electronic braking?
2) How much side-to-side blade jiggle is normal in a
Makita LS1013?
3) Do I need to give the blade more attention, e.g: tightening?
(I was using the tool out-of-box, only doing the initial stuff that
the manual mentions.)
4) For my deeper education, can anyone here explain the
technical details of how Makita's electronic braking actually works?
TIA.
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28th August 2006 11:54 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th August 2006, 12:03 PM #2
I've had mine for about 8 years and the electronic braking has just started playing up in the last few weeks. It's only annoying when you want to do several cuts in a row and you want to place the blade ona mark before cutting. Otherwise, it doesn't bother me. Probably happens about every 1 in 10 cuts.
Haven't noticed any significant lateral play but then I haven't really checked for it either. I haven't touched the blade since I got it. Probably long over due for a sharpen but it still cuts pretty clean after thousands of cuts."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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28th August 2006, 02:37 PM #3
I had identical symptoms on my SCMS. Posted asking for help and got the advice I'm about to give.
Check that the blade is securely attached to the drive shaft.
In my case the nut had come loose and the braking was working fine, but the blade just kept spinning. At first it span for a few seconds and was up to 1 minute freewheeling before I fixed it.
I felt a bit silly.Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
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28th August 2006, 04:31 PM #4Woodworker
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I have the Dewalt version and have also been caught out with a loose arbor nut. What is with these machines? My table saw blades never come loose!:eek:
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28th August 2006, 04:38 PM #5
Given it's a very intermitent problem on mine, I doubt it's a loose nut. Well, the one on the blade, anyway. Could be a loose nut holding the handle.
Anyway, the motor on mine makes a noise while it's slowing down. Have either of the loose nuts guys noticed that, or is it silent after you let go of the trigger?"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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28th August 2006, 04:44 PM #6Woodworker
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I check my "loose nut" regularly these days... (doesn't that sound a bit funny )
As regardling the electronic braking, my DeWalt also fails to stop around once every 10 goes. It sounds as if the electronic brake has failed to engage (no sound). But I assume that it has something to do with the trigger switch because when it fails to stop if I squeeze the trigger again, the brake always engages. Mild annoyance -- out of warrantee -- I figured I would take it apart and see what's going on, but it is not annoying enough yet for such drastic measures! Regards
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28th August 2006, 06:13 PM #7
The brake on these machine is an electrical brake not a mechanical brake.
A lot of the problem can be bad contact with the brushes on the armature. If the machine gets a lot of constant use everything heats up and the brushes bind up slightly in there brush holders not allowing the brushes to contact the commutator on the armature properly so not allowing the circuit to work properly so no brake or a very weak break.
Another part that could be causing the problem can be the switch if it does not work properly then the circuit is open and the brake will not work.Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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28th August 2006, 06:24 PM #8
I've got exactly the same problem with a Makita drop mitre saw (not a slide one)... intermittent braking. I'll try the brushes.
Early on I had some serious "play" in the blade, and thought the Jesus nut had come loose. When I checked it was much worse, the shaft with blade and bearing had fallen out!:eek: Two tiny phillips head screws were all that retained the bearing, much smaller than I would have engineered into the thing. I put them back with a good dose of Loctite and so far its kept the shaft where it belongs.
Cheers,Andy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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28th August 2006, 06:39 PM #9Retired
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- Lorne, Victoria
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safety saw blade stop
The actual "brake" on electric saws is electrical not mechanical. It uses the spinning of the blade (motor) to generate a current after the switch is released. This is called back EMF (electro magnetic force) and is applied to the windings as a reverse current and stops the motor really fast. The most likely cause of not working has been already mentioned. ie. brushes and the switch. It is also quite a common failure due to the inherent design.
regards
Ingin
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28th August 2006, 11:33 PM #10
I'd like to take a stab at the braking thing if I may...
The brake does work off EMF as mentioned, simply put when the motor is spinning but without power applied, it's a generator.
If you short out the motor across it's brushes, then all that power is kinda backfed into the motor to power it backwards like, but since it's running forwards, it all comes to a screaming halt very quickly.
On the saw, the braking is not a dead short, it will be a short with some resistance built in to slow the blade qucikly, but not right now. If it was a dead short, it would stop nearly instantaneously, and with a kilogram of steel and tungsten coming to a stop that quick is just asking for shrapnel.
With the intermittant braking, it is possible that the braking device is getting warm and not working as well as it could or has a thermal cutout. After many cuts one after the other, this is not an unreasomable explanation. It's also possible the braking contacts in the switch are a little scruffy, since they are auxilliary contacts and are not likely to be as hefty as the main contacts.
Very likely for an intermittant brake to be electrical, especially if all mechanical causes (loose blade!) have been taken care of.
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29th August 2006, 01:57 PM #11Quantum Field Theorist :-)
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Thanks everyone for your replies.
I bought Makita because I thought that brand would
give me many years of trouble-free use.
So this is all a bit disappointing, since my machine
is brand new, and had only been used for a couple
of hours (around 80 cuts through 42x42 blackbutt).
I've checked the nut on my blade and was indeed able to
tighten it a little bit further, by about a 1/8-1/4 of a turn.
I didn't notice any obvious difference in lateral play of
the blade after doing this.
"Andy Mac" mentioned:
Early on I had some serious "play" in the blade, and
thought the Jesus nut had come loose.
When I checked it was much worse, the shaft with
blade and bearing had fallen out! Two tiny phillips head
screws were all that retained the bearing, much smaller than
I would have engineered into the thing. I put them back with a
good dose of Loctite and so far its kept the shaft where it belongs.
dismantle the whole thing to find them? (I only moved the blade guard
out of the way, as described in the manual.)
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29th August 2006, 02:06 PM #12
Hi strangerep,
I wouldn't worry about it too much, but the blade has to be off before you'll see the retainer. Jesus nut is used to describe the fitting that holds helicopter rotors where they belong, because you'll be screaming for him if it lets go... old RAAF speak.
I agree with the comment that Makita is bought for reputation...you shouldn't expect anything less than quality equipment.
Cheers,Andy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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