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  1. #16
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    Not sure what FOG is but this one has more info and better pics.
    Planer knife sharpening jig - DIYWiki

    There are hundreds of others on line too as all you really want is something to hold the blades at the right angle. While on angles its best to go a degree or two higher than the bevel so as make a micro bevel. that means you can sharpen them a lot faster as there is less metal to rub away. I was about a degree the wrong way so the first sharpen took ages.

    Regards
    John

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by orraloon View Post
    Not sure what FOG is
    festool owners group. The forum you linked to ;-)

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by orraloon View Post
    Not sure what FOG is but this one has more info and better pics.
    Planer knife sharpening jig - DIYWiki

    There are hundreds of others on line too as all you really want is something to hold the blades at the right angle. While on angles its best to go a degree or two higher than the bevel so as make a micro bevel. that means you can sharpen them a lot faster as there is less metal to rub away. I was about a degree the wrong way so the first sharpen took ages.

    Regards
    John
    Thanks!

    I suppose you flatten the back of them first before doing the bevel in the jig? What grit sandpaper should I use? Will using a stone that shorter than the blade by moving it back and forth also work?

  5. #19
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    Feb 2007
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    blue mountains
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    I only flatten as in removing the burr using a 1000 diamond plate. I usually use 360 or 400 then 600 turn the jig over and a quick rub with the diamond plate. I guess the whole thing could be done with the diamond stone one or two times but a large flat surface qurantees a strait edge. If they are bad then go more agressive grits. When I realised my mistake with the angle that first time I got an old 80g sanding belt to start with then work through the grits. After they are sharp it's best to do them before they get real blunt then its quite quick to do. You can seriously get a better edge on them than when new.
    Regards
    John

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Canberra
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    Yoboseyo, why not include some pictures to show us your pain!

    Is this the devil wood I gave you?

    If so, I miss that stuff. It was one of my all time favourites. I was going to build the Workbench From Hell with it

  7. #21
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    blue mountains
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    Quote Originally Posted by poundy View Post
    festool owners group. The forum you linked to ;-)

    Living and learning. Never owned anything by festool so far.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
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    5,105

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    Quote Originally Posted by yoboseyo View Post
    I do use the thicknesser - I use it on Vic Ash and jarrah. Just in this case I'll be using it on Cooktown Ironwood.

    The blades are removable. I haven't looked into sharpening, but I'll consider the jig idea. Now the thicknesser is missing the gauge tool for setting the blades, so I'm a bit reluctant to take blades out. The thicknesser model is the Ryobi AP13AK.
    Hi Yoboseyo

    I have two sets of blades for my thicknesser.

    I use a lot of salvaged timber which often contains foreign bodies - nails, stones, dirt, shells, etc - and I use my old or sacrificial blades for this rough work. They get hand sharpened on course diamond stones, only. I do not care if I knick these blades.

    When I have good surfaces and I am sure that there are no hidden dangers I switch to my smoothing blades.


    Cheers

    Graeme

  9. #23
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Canberra, Australia
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    306

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    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Yoboseyo, why not include some pictures to show us your pain!

    Is this the devil wood I gave you?

    If so, I miss that stuff. It was one of my all time favourites. I was going to build the Workbench From Hell with it
    yep!

    I actually managed to plane enough to see what's inside. Looks good! I'll put up a pic when I can

  10. #24
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    May 2019
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    Canberra, Australia
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    20191012_150459.jpg

    Boy, was this hard to plane

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Redlands area, Brisbane
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    To my mind an electric hand planer is a hand held jointer and in theory you can use it to flatten one side. This in fact is the preferred method of thicknessing timber: Flatten one side and then you have a reference surface to thickness the other side.
    I prefer to think of it as a scrub plane.

    I have used a hand held electric planer to flatten one face of a long board in just the same way as you would with a scrub plane; using winding sticks and the Mk1 eyeball to get one face flat enough I could put it through a planer. Worked great.

    In the case we are talking about here; I would use it in the same way I described, then through the planer to get it close; and perhaps a drum sander to finish up because of the timber hardness.

  12. #26
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    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
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    If its dry CKI its pretty tough on any cutting edge so good luck planing & thicknessing it.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

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