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Thread: What Happened to Wolf
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15th November 2011, 03:02 AM #76Tool collector
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Hi all,
after a hectic working week, i decided last weekend to take the Wolf saw apart i bought a year ago, and restore it. Tinkering with tools temporarily frees the brain for me, like crosswords and bookreading do for others. Since i mentioned this saw a few posts earlier, i made some pics of it.
The motor housing design shared by this Sapphire saw and the large Sapphire drill is clearly visible. The drill has a 1050 Watts motor, which is also used in the 7 1/4" version of the saw. The saw in the pics is the 9 1/4"version, with the motor having been souped up to 1350 Watts. Also visible are the flange attachments on the motor housing, which can either take the drill's side handles or the wrap-around saw handle. The same motor housing was also used for medium size straight and angle grinders, with the flanges left away (smoothened out in the moulds).
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15th November 2011 03:02 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th November 2011, 03:19 AM #77Tool collector
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Forgot to add: this particular saw was made in 1979 (most markings inside the machine indicate March specifically).
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15th November 2011, 04:08 PM #78Senior Member
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I have a Wolf drill stand, rescued from the rubbish tip, that I am happy to give away.
PM me if anybody is interested.
I love old tools and machinery so I hate to see anything like this go to waste.Regards
Bradford
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15th November 2011, 04:25 PM #79
G'Day "gerhard" and others,
I have a Wolf Jigsaw & Pistol Drill from the mid 1980's.
I purchased them from the Australian Kango Wolf agent back then; still working.
I'll try to sort a couple of photos in the few days.
Cheers, Crowie
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16th November 2011, 08:12 AM #80New Member
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- Jul 2011
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Hi Gerhard,
Many thanks for your reply (20th September), appreciating your efforts and time again. I am now researching hand tool repair specialists in order to have a good look and provide a thorough assesment
Regards
Finder
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23rd November 2011, 06:07 AM #81New Member
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- Leicester, UK
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Wolf 1" Heavy Duty Drill - chuck key
Have just acquired one of these but don't have a chuck key. Any ideas where I could get one. Having a look on ebay in uk WOLF HEAVY DUTY ELECTRIC DRILL USES 3MT SHANK TOOLS | eBay
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24th November 2011, 08:21 PM #82
Once again I am blown away by the quality (and quantity) of info available on this site. U-beaut have created an iconic destination here.
This Wolf came from a fencing contractor/farmer who used it to arbor through fence posts.
Works great, strong - a little sparky inside the case - keep away from petroleum refineries and gas plants
Paul McGee
(same pic 2 ways)
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25th November 2011, 05:54 AM #83Tool collector
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Hi Wellhandyman,
in case you already know the story underneath (as most handymen undoubtedly do), please consider it unwritten, because i wouldn't want to insult you by lecturing you in any way. In that case, the story is meant to benefit those who do not yet know the details on MT3-tapers.
The key you want is probably a standard Morse Taper size 3 release wedge. You stick it inside the oval hole and behind the drill bit, to eject the bit out of the hollow arbour by applying leverage to the wedge. Alternatively, a light tap with a hammer on the wedge can be applied, but i always try to avoid shock loads on the arbour and try if leverage works, before resorting to the hammer. And if doing the latter, i always support the protruding bit of the hollow arbour on something solid, to releave the arbour bearings from the blow. Be sure not to do this with the machine plugged; inadvertantly starting it up with the wedge stuck through the arbour will surely cause some sort of damage on the inside or on the outer appearance of the machine, since the stalling torque of these things is huge (nominal running torque can already run up to 100-200 Newtonmeters)!
MT3 wedges are fairly standard items, and are also used for the AEG B4-1050 super torque, the Milwaukee B4-32, the Metabo B7532-4 and several other German brands like Eibenstock, to name but a few. Any well stocked tool and repair shop can order one for you.
MT-shafts are ideal. You buy the large drill bits with the taper already intregrated; just stick them in and go, no fiddling with spanning a chuck. Store the machine and the bits with lightly greased or oiled cone surfaces to prevent rust, but do remove all oil, grease and dust from the cones to a state of thorough dryness before drilling, to enhance adhesion of the cone surfaces and to prevent bits from falling out of the arbour. MT conversion shafts and bushes are also available. A MT3 to B16/18/22 adapter will buy you the versatility of a standard drill chuck on your normally chuckless machine, to use standard bits. An MT3 to MT2 adapter bush will give the additional choice of MT2-tapered bits.
and hi Paul,
nice machine you've got there; our Dutch state railways used these very models up to the 80's to drill screw holes in oak railway sleepers, running them on petrol generator sets. You could check on the source of the sparking by removing one of the brushes (be sure to mount it in the same way). If there are no severly burnt edges on the brush contact surface, a good cleaning of the commutator will remedy most of the sparking.
greetings all
gerhard
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25th November 2011, 06:22 AM #84
Gerhard
You are a font of knowledge
and that MT3 drill - what a beast!
Thanks very much,
Paul McGee
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29th November 2011, 03:46 PM #85
Finally I've been able to do the photos of my Kango Wolf Drill & Jigsaw...attached.
Cheers, crowie
Attachment 189485
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1st December 2011, 11:40 PM #86Tool collector
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Hi Crowie,
nice pics, very informative! The 2310 percussion drill is a fine machine. It was one of the firm's last own drill designs. The jig saw is already outsourced, it is probably made by Perles from Switzerland (which was taken over in 2004 by the Czech firm Iskra, which makes power tools, electric and electronic components and household appliance motors, even for reputable brands like Braun). Wolf's own 350 Watts jig saw used the cream coloured motor housing of the 400 Watts "Grinderette" small angle grinder, with a cream cast alloy rod drive gear housing, steel sole plate and aqua blue wrap-around handle (all their own designs) bolted on to it. Nothing wrong with it, but sales figures of this model were modest, since competition was stiff and even the UK home market developed a fondness for Bosch jig saws, leading to Wolf's decision to discontinue the production of such a machine. Hence the outsourcing of your particular jig saw model.
This is getting a fun post with all these tool pics. I'll try to delve up some more machines myself.
greetings
gerhard
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19th July 2012, 01:16 AM #87New Member
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I have one of these drills but can not see the voltage on it is yours 220 volt or 110?
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19th July 2012, 10:39 AM #88
If you mean mine (https://www.woodworkforums.com/f13/wh...ml#post1405869) then we have 240V 50Hz single phase electricity in Australia.
Cheers,
Paul
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4th August 2012, 09:02 PM #89New Member
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1" wolf still in use
Hi Everyone,
I was looking for information on an old 1" wolf drill I have in my workshops at Normans Bay, East Sussex UK, From reading your excellent posts it appears to be a 3MCT model or something similar,
Weve had it for years, 240 volt unit has grease cup to lub the main output shaft. Used it a few weeks ago to make some special steel load plates for the "Big Blue " building next to the Oylimpic Stadium ( made from 108 shipping containers).
This Wolf drill is very VERY powerful and drill 30mm holes through mild steel without a murmur.
For our tidal stream turbine project I am working out if I can use the very slow rotational speed for drilling and tapping 316 stainless steel with 10mm threads.
The RPM is single speed and slow but would like to know that figure.
Have pics can send
Best Regards
Paul Hales
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23rd February 2016, 04:59 AM #90New Member
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Wonderful information on this thread. I just bought a Wolf RS10A and I'm looking forward to receiving it so I can service it and hopefully use it.
WolfRS10A on case.JPGWolfRS10A.JPGLast edited by jonititan; 23rd February 2016 at 10:17 PM. Reason: picture formatting