Thread: Help with Jointer

The way I set mine is so the blades are slightly higher than the outfeed. I sit a long steel ruler on edge and rotate the cutter head. When the blade lifts the ruler and moves it about 5mm I have it right. Then I do a few test cuts and check the edge against a straight edge and adjust it until it's spot on.

Steve,

I had the same problem with my technique when I was using a jointer for the first time last week. The bloke who owned it could joint just fine on it, when I did it, the timber ended up the same as you described.

It was my technique causing the problem. Remember to keep pushing down on the timber on the infeed table as well as the outfeed table. I stopped applying pressure to the timber on the infeed table after I had pushed the front of the timber through the blades.

After sorting out my technique, the jointing was fine. It could be your issue too if the machine checks out OK.

http://www.hareandforbes.com.au/samp...orking/11.html
just a wee bit more but new and with a warranty.

see here mate -
http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/usejntr.html
all the good oil
Jedo

Remember to keep pushing down on the timber on the infeed table as well as the outfeed table.

Hmm, as a matter of fact, that's not the best idea. Once you have passed a couple of inches over the blade, the leading end of the board becomes your reference surface and you really need it to follow the outfeed table. If you put too much pressure on the trailing end, you run the risk of lifting it up off the outfeed.

For a straight board every time, hold it firm near the centre of the machine for the first few inches and then transfer most of your pressure to the outfeed. Hold it firm at the rear so that it doesn't bounce over the blade, but not much pressure at all. In fact, sometimes for shorter lengths, I hold it exclusively on the outfeed end. It's like a lever with the blade/edge of the outfeed as the fulcrum.

The other thing to watch for is if the board has a bow in it and you run it bow side down, as the trailing end of the board passes over the end of the infeed, the bow may cause the board to lift up away from the cutter, so you effectively transfer the curve to the leading end in reverse. If it's a slight bow, I start with the bow facing up and work from the middle.

Alternatively, you can start with the bow facing down and work from the back of the board, planing away the point of the curve, then flip the board and do the same at the other end, then run it through all the way a few times until straight.

Gasweld sell them for $399 new with warranty
les

Originally Posted by silentC

Hmm, as a matter of fact, that's not the best idea. Once you have passed a couple of inches over the blade, the leading end of the board becomes your reference surface and you really need it to follow the outfeed table. If you put too much pressure on the trailing end, you run the risk of lifting it up off the outfeed.

Which is what I was told initially, and like a green newbie I ended up putting far to much pressure on the outfeed table and nothing on the infeed, causing the board to tilt towards the front for the middle of the pass, hence why the machine took nothing out the middle of the board. I was using too much muscle, and in the wrong place on the machine.

Never underestimate the mis-application of good advice

If you look at the mechanics of it, it's not really possible to put too much pressure on the outfeed. At least once you have a flat leading end anyway. If you're only just establishing a flat surface, then yes there is a danger that you will bow the board or lift it off the infeed if you push down too hard. It's one of those feel things that you get the hang of after about 20 years!

Another trap for newcomers is pushing down too hard and flattening out a bow with your weight. The jointer will take a nice 1 or 2mm slice off the board and then when you let go, it springs back to it's original shape.

If checking out the machine the first question is do you really have a straight edge. Many levels are not perfectly straight. As well as checking if each table is flat you also need to check that the two tables are perfectly parrallel. Set both tables to same height and then check flatness across both tables. Then you need to check that you can get the fence perpendicular to the tables especially just prior to the blades and then on the outfeed side.

Many machines I have seen have a slight twist in the fence.

Steve
I go along with what Silent has already said about setting up and using a jointer, except that I start with the bow up, always.
Firm pressure but no forcing. Never force the bend out of the timber. The odd time you need to press hard is on long lengths of heavy stuff, by which time you should have a stand or some other support.
It definitely takes time to learn to do it well,the more so with a small machine with short tables, but what seems hard to you now, you will be smiling about in a few weeks.

Cheers
Bill

Really appreciating the suggestions and tips. I'm going to spend the weekend making lots of sawdust, and seeing if I can get the hang of it!!
There's obviously a lot more skill to getting the best out of a jointer than it first appears.
Steve

I think some of the problem here relates to technique. But perhaps the main issue is the length of the infeed and outfeed tables?

I think the rule is that you can joint timber accurately according to the combine length of both tables. So if you have 1200mm both sides, you can accurately joint 2400 or thereabouts. If your technique is good enough.

My solution on bent boards is to "joint" on my sliding table saw - max of 2400mm. That way, I get a straight saw cut at that length, then thickness to size.

Experience also tells me that jointing long boards is not easy. I know that an extra pair of hands makes the task much easier.

On undressed timber of any lenght, I joint one face, rip the edge on the sliding table, thickness the other face, then either thickness or rip to width. (even if I rip on the TS, I usually thickness anyway for a better edge.)

I have watched on old cabinet maker joint twisted / RS boards better than I could - thus conserving timber that otherwise would be useless. But he's being doing it for 50+ years and knows what he's doing!

Jeff

I go along with what Silent has already said about setting up and using a jointer, except that I start with the bow up, always.

Yes, I saw your addition to the jointer article in Wikipedia, which is why I have ocassionally used that method too of late - I was taught the other way. If you can get it to sit flat, I find working from the middle of the board easier, but for deeper bows, I cut the tips off first, as per your diagram. You just need to make sure you remove enough so that it's not riding on the end of the infeed as you bring it through for the full length cut.

I think the rule is that you can joint timber accurately according to the combine length of both tables.

Not aware of that being a rule. My jointer table is only 1100mm but I regularly joint 2.4 and 2.6 metre lengths on it. The only reason it becomes an issue with longer boards is because you can overbalance the machine trying to hold the board down flat on the outfeed as you get near the end of the pass. If you try to get someone to help you, then there's the problem that they have to be aware of the technique as well. I used to joint 3.6 metre 8x2s on a 1500 long bed jointer in a joinery but it took two of us to do it.

So far so good Silent. Keep it going brother.

There is no need to apply much downward pressure to the stock (infeed + outfeed). The weight of the wood will do it. Your job is to push the timber forward + the smallest amount downward pressure possible.

Yes, you should try it.