Thread: Help - Removing grinder bushing

Gently heat with a torch, is most likely Loctited and if not the heat will probably expand it anyway and allow it to com free.

Just gave that a try, unfortunately no joy. One problem is holding the bush and trying to stop the shaft from spinning. Multi grips on the bush are also starting to score it. Anything else I can try?

What about welding a washer onto the sleeve & using a bearing puller. The heat from the welding may help as well.

Thanks unfortunately welding is not one of my skill sets. Would a bearing pulley onto the flange that you can see in the photo? Alternatively what about if I put a socket with 5/8ths diameter over the shaft and against the bush and give it a “wack” with a hammer to shock it. I don’t want to ruin a very good grinder though.

Originally Posted by Punchy

Thanks unfortunately welding is not one of my skill sets. Would a bearing pulley onto the flange that you can see in the photo? I doubt you would get the legs of a puller on the flange and even if you did you run the risk of distorting it. [ Alternatively what about if I put a socket with 5/8ths diameter over the shaft and against the bush and give it a “wack” with a hammer to shock it. I don’t want to ruin a very good grinder though. Wacking the shaft in any direct can damage the ball bearings

As it’s the RH wheel the shaft will be threaded right handed; put a 2nd nut on the threads and tighten the two together to lock them tight. You can then hold the shaft with a spanner on one of the nuts while you try to free off the bush using vise-grips or a Footprint wrench. Last resort would be to use a small Stillson wrench.

If you can lock the spindle from the other end to stop it turning, an you will know longer need the bushing, I would try an grind it off, you may find that as you create a flat spot with the grinder, just before it breaks through you may be able to open it up with some vise grips an it will come off.
Sounds dramatic but if your careful it can be done in a controlled way.

Cheers Matt.

I had this happen to one of my bench grinders a while back. Bushing would not move even with a fair bit of heat and some foreign language.

Then I had the idea of using a nut splitter on it - I have a few in the toolbox from working on stubborn nuts on cars. Did the job easily and only took a few minutes (had to have two bites at it because of the length of the bushing).
If you don't have a nut splitter, you can buy a cheap one from Supercheap Auto - or any decent tool store will have them.

ToolPRO Nut Splitter 12-16mm | Supercheap Auto

Mate it looks like you could get a bearing puller behind the large spacer behind the bush were are you i may be able to help
Cheers Rod

I am in Stretton, Southside of Brisbane. The photo may be deceiving as there is probably only 1mm of space between the bush and the flange so not sure getting a puller in there is feasible?

38178C86-D1E3-4A74-ACFE-00A4C4855E42.jpg5A8F4A7F-0214-475A-8E9B-5C83536C818D.jpg
Slightly different angle on this photo.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Finally got it off using locking pliers and a bit more muscle power. Took the other end off as well so will need to get myself another CBN wheel.

In the meantime, am I OK to use it with only one wheel on the grinder?

IMG_1864.jpg

I think I mounted mine with the flat abrasive face on the outside - opposite to yours? Not sure if it makes any difference, but I just prefer the flat face to be completely unobstructed by the body of the grinder?

Thanks, I am no expert I just followed the picture on the box that the wheel came in from Timbercon. I suspect it doesn’t really matter, however a guru might get on here and enlighten us!