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Thread: Hot Capacitor
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23rd May 2006, 07:14 PM #1
Hot Capacitor
I bought a rexon floor pedestal drill press from the local steel supplier for $50.00 because "the motor's kaput". I've managed to get it going with a spare capacitor (as everyone would suspect). My problem is that the "new" capacitor is getting hot, very hot. I remember reading somewhere (Cliff Rogers?) that some Caps need to be installed with the correct polarity. None of the Caps I have, including the Kaput one, has positive or negative signs on the poles. I now suspect that the one I threw in there is just the wrong sized capacitor. Can anyone help?
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23rd May 2006, 07:22 PM #2
Check that the centrifugal switch is not stuck in the closed position (welded contacts).
The capacitor should only be used for a short period of time until the motor is up to speed (it is used to provide a second, out-of-phase, phase to the starting winding to get the motor moving in the correct direction).
Chris
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23rd May 2006, 11:36 PM #3
watch the heat coz when they expode they do so with extreme gusto and spew loads of "stuff" all over the place
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24th May 2006, 12:45 AM #4
We are dealing with AC here polarity is not an issue, the capacitor should be non polar.
the capacitor should also be the correct size and rated for mains motor start.
depending on the motor configuration the capacitor may or may not stay in circuit.
indeed check on speed contacts.
unless you are absolutly competent in these matters it is wisest to call in a licenced electrical worker.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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24th May 2006, 10:05 AM #5Originally Posted by soundman
I agree with soundman on this one
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24th May 2006, 10:15 AM #6
be very careful with the capacitor if by some chance it explodes be very careful with the swarf - the internal chemicals etc are usually extremely carconigenic. handle with care, do not breathe in any of the gases, wear rubber gloves and keep kids well away until the area is secure.
(no joke here guys)Zed
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24th May 2006, 11:11 AM #7
What soundman said except you may want to take the motor to a rewind place and let them have a look, could be a bit quicker and maybe cheaper.
Just an option.
Motors are usually easy to remove.Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
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24th May 2006, 01:53 PM #8
Yeap, should be non-polar.
That unit most likely won't have a speed cut out switch for the start winding so the cap will have some load on it & will heat up.
You have to be sure that you have used a replacement that is correctly rated for the job.
Sometimes, replacing it with the exact same rated device is not right.
Some bits of gear are made for the 220VAC market & sold here in Oz where we often get upto 254VAC out of the mains socket.
Any 'mains' connected cap here in Oz needs to be rated to 400VDC to be safe.
Is it too hot to touch?Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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24th May 2006, 04:22 PM #9
For all the above reasons, isn't there a capacitor cover in case the capacitor does explode?
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24th May 2006, 04:24 PM #10Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers
Thanks for the responses everyone. I did my homework before I asked and ran a search on threads in this forum. I'm ultra-careful with electricity and very quick to call in a professional when something is beyond me. This is not an urgent project: I have another drill press. It's more out of interest than anything.
I think that the important info that I gained from this is that once the motor's running the Caps should basically be out of action and shouldn't get hot. Is this right?
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24th May 2006, 04:33 PM #11Originally Posted by RossluckOriginally Posted by Cliff RogersCliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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24th May 2006, 05:57 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Mine's a Rexon also and it does have a centrifugal switch.
Dan
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24th May 2006, 06:47 PM #13
Thanks again for the help. I took the motor apart this afternoon and the contacts were in such good condition that I didn't bother cleaning them. Instead I whipped out the replacement Cap and replaced it with another Cap I have. Problem solved. I ran the motor for half an hour, loading it occasionally, and it was as cool as a cucumber.
I do appreciate the frustration electricians must feel hearing of amateurs like me fiddling with stuff we don't know much about. But I am ultra careful, sometimes even wrapping the end of the disconnected cord around my wrist to be certain that I'm not fiddling with live stuff. I also have two in-line earth leakage circuit breakers and a "stand back and turn it on from a distance" attitude.
This did not, however, prevent me being lightly bitten while changing a welding rod this afternoon.
Thanks again.
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25th May 2006, 09:36 AM #14Originally Posted by Tiger
Generally the case is only a thin aluminium skin, even the little ones (5mm across by 10mm high) go off with one hell of a bang when hooked up asre about on a DC circuit (Cliff will remember those in Rad School )Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
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