Thread: Do I need an Impact Driver?

Two of the guys at work have the Makita 14.4v impact drivers and they'll happily drive 70mm screws into hardwood without a pilot hole all day.
I love my Festool TI15, but not everyone wants to spend that much.

Ok, lets put some sense into this....

Using a 18V impact driver to put screws into hardwood...if the hardwood is seasoned then snapping off the screws will happen and also splitting of the timber.

If the hardwood is green then snapping off of screws is lessened....it will still happen and so will splitting.

When constructing anything using wood to stop the wood splitting/snaping off of screws predrilling is esential.

I can snap screws off using a 12V impact driver...it's faster with the 18V though

An impact driver puts out about 100nm to in excess of 140nm of torque (this usually depends on the voltage) .. a cordless drill is around the 40nm mark.

If you can use a normal screw driver (human powerd) to put out that kind of torque Arnie look out.

So it really depends on how much torque the impact driver puts out as how fast in can put a screw in and also how fast it can snap it off.

Yes I have done enough decks and they were all predrilled with countersink then the screw was put in (18V DeWalt). There is no other way to do it.

You eventually get a feel on how far you can go without snapping the screw.

So what you need to know is what is the main purpose you are going to use the impact driver for, then buy accordingly.

In 6 years of cabinet/furniture making I've snapped more screws with a drill than an impact driver. I find that once screws reach 'terminal torque', a drill will keep going full power and snap it right off while an impact driver just rattles around but the screw doesn't turn any more. While you get much more torque from an impact driver, it's also much more controllable.
As for pre-boring being essential, I whole-heartedly disagree; it depends on screw size and what timber you're going in to. I can (and regularly do) drive 70mm in Vic Ash without a pilot hole no probs, but try 40mm in Jarrah and it's a whole different story.

WOW, I have just been looking at the prices, they are not cheap...

Seems the best buy is to buy a kit....why do they sell them as skins only anyway..what is the point etc?

Anyone know of a decent price on a kit that includes batteries and charges etc?

Cheers

Originally Posted by Arry

WOW, I have just been looking at the prices, they are not cheap...

Seems the best buy is to buy a kit....why do they sell them as skins only anyway..what is the point etc?

Anyone know of a decent price on a kit that includes batteries and charges etc?

Cheers

Panasonic and Makita both do reasonably priced kits, good quality stuff too. I reckon the Panasonic edges out the Makita for quality, but Makita has more skins if you want to get them later.
The point of skins is so you can add tools to your kit if you already have batteries. Great for occasional use tools like jigsaws and angle grinders.

ah ok, I have mixture of brands all over the place on my power hand tools, Metabo, Makita, Bosch, Ryobi, Dremel, AEG etc

Never used Dewalt before?

Maybe I should have stuck with one brand

I was just about to go and spend my vouchers when I thought about what else I need.

Am thinking of the Work Sharp 3000.

I don't use hand tools that much though (most likely because I cannot get them sharp)

hmmmmm what to do? and why did I start thinking about it, Doh!

Originally Posted by Arry

hmmmmm what to do? and why did I start thinking about it, Doh!

Spend the money on quality cordless now, because that is your need, then wait for the Worksharp (if you really must have one - I sold mine after not long).

Originally Posted by Arry

Maybe I should have stuck with one brand

Only important in cordless, so you can use the same batteries and charger (by buying skins).

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Spend the money on quality cordless now, because that is your need, then wait for the Worksharp (if you really must have one - I sold mine after not long).

Only important in cordless, so you can use the same batteries and charger (by buying skins).

Thats why all my cordless are Li Makita 18V 3ah

Just my opinion as a carpenter. It depends on what you are using these tools for to help determine which size is best, 10.8, 14.4 or 18v. As an all round solution a good quality 18v cordless drill driver and impact driver will cover nearly everything you throw at it. I use an impact driver flat out every day and they are super handy, will effortlessly drive 100mm hex head and bugle screws into pine, as was mentioned if ever there is a concern about splitting then pilot, pilot, pilot! The next thing that I see a lot is people not understanding how to use the 'drive function' on their cordless drill to set screws. I quite often will use a drill on drive setting at about 8 to set screws in plaster for perfect countersinks, same for cement sheets that are left as an exposed finish.

Summing up 18v drill and driver combo is good general purpose set up, 10.8 is excellent for fit out and joinery. I would highly recommend getting one if you haven't had one before!

If I could do without my Bosch 10.8 I would sell it in a heartbeat. I hate the bloody thing, it is too noisy especially in a cabinet enclosure but that is what it it good at. What can an impact driver do that a good drill with a clutch can't? The only reason I have mine is fitting stuff inside cabs like drawer slides etc where its small size excels. I drive all big fasteners with a proper impact gun if needed as most have a hex drive head. I just don't get the fascination with these things.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

If I could do without my Bosch 10.8 I would sell it in a heartbeat. I hate the bloody thing, it is too noisy especially in a cabinet enclosure but that is what it it good at. What can an impact driver do that a good drill with a clutch can't? The only reason I have mine is fitting stuff inside cabs like drawer slides etc where its small size excels. I drive all big fasteners with a proper impact gun if needed as most have a hex drive head. I just don't get the fascination with these things.

The clutch on a drill has a totally different function to an impact driver. The clutch is designed to stop over-torquing, and impact driver is designed to apply lots of torque in a controllable manner. While they sound similar in operation, that's about the only thing in common.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

The clutch on a drill has a totally different function to an impact driver. The clutch is designed to stop over-torquing, and impact driver is designed to apply lots of torque in a controllable manner. While they sound similar in operation, that's about the only thing in common.

Yes that is the difference. I have yet to find apart from internal cabinet work any advantage of an impact driver. If doing outside landscape work then buy the proper tool which is an impact gun, far more capable for near enough to the same price and uses 3/8 square drive. My tool of choice because I have the luxury of compressed air is one of these NEW Compact 3 8" Butterfly Impact Wrench AIR Hand Tools | eBay

It will drive an 12mm x 150mm coach bolt into hardwood with the appropriate pre-drilling and never look like stalling. I have never understood the fascination with the impact driver, marketing has truly done a good job in selling the concept. By the time a good one is bought you could nearly buy a cheap compressor and a butterfly gun.

I am sure others see it differently but I have done a huge amount of heavy lansdcape work using air tools and not one flat or worn out battery or burnt out motor.

The biggest advantage I've found is the lack of recoil when you get to the torquier work. A regular drill can nearly snap your wrist off, an impact driver just rattles around a bit.
While air tools are great, my only gripe with them is the bloody hose hanging off the end; not ideal for cabinet work and installations. You also have to lug around a compressor and hose, which take up much more space than a battery charger.
As for price; you can get an impact driver from any of the major brands for under $300, can you buy a half decent compressor, hose and impact wrench for double that?
Air impact wrenches/drivers are not targeting the same market as battery powered ones and I don't think a direct comparison is fair to either.