Thread: Jointers

Hello Maglite...

Some questions: How did you accomplish the swap to single phase? Motor
RPM and pulleys all the same? There is an optimum rpm for the cutter head.

Did you replace the knives with new ones, or at least sharp ones?

Are the beds flat and coplanar as checked with a serious straightedge?

You need to clean all that rust off the beds and get some wax on there for
the machine to give you its best. Also the knives have to be set into the cutterhead with a high degree of precision for them to work properly.

The scalloping in your picture looks like at least one knife is set too high. Also, try to tune up the machine with a less demanding blank. Many woods will tear out on the jointer (known as a planer outside North America).

Finally for now, what make is the machine?

Best,

Greg

Chattering should be blunt blades.(worn cutter head bearings will cause chattering too)
They do make a buzzing sound hence the name buzzer!
Might help if you clean up that rusty surface too, give it a good waxing after.

I agree with Harry72 about the chattering. I put some 4 x 1 larch through my thicknesser last week. It was OK initially but after a while - about 10 - 15 sticks I guess, the noise level went way up, the chips got smaller and the vibration was terrible. New knives.... same batch timber - perfect again. I like larch - but it is hard on knives and saw blades.

I agree about the blades probably being blunt and causing the chattering. Don't try and take too much off at each pass either.

For snipe, you need to work on the outfeed table height. It's probably too low. Have a read through this thread.....

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...=jointer+snipe

My recipe for cleaning rust like that:
Couple of old bigs rags, WD40 and one of them cheap foam sander blocks that come in packs from The Warehouse.
Spray on WD40 and rub with sander block, wipe off slurry with rag, repeat if neccessary, when surface is clean apply a liberal coat of wax paste (traditional wax works well) and buff to a shine.
Do this a few times a year with the wax and rust will never be a problem, super slick too.
The others have all given the rest of the advice.

Originally Posted by Iain

Spray on WD40 and rub with sander block, wipe off slurry with rag, repeat if neccessary, when surface is clean apply a liberal coat of wax paste (traditional wax works well) and buff to a shine.
Do this a few times a year with the wax and rust will never be a problem, super slick too.
The others have all given the rest of the advice.

hi Iain,

whats the traditional wax is that the brand or the type of wax ?

I've tried finding the johnsons but no luck.

Andrew

Any floor wax will do. Johnson's may be a North American (only) brand. Just get any paste-type wax that doesn't have silicone in it.

To clean the tables get a scotchbrite pad (or a few). You can use these with a random orbital sander and a lot of spray lubricant. I use RP-7 or whatever is cheapest at the checkout line at Bunnings.

After the rust has been removed you need to clean off the residue with thinners or turps before waxing.

Greg

Google 'jointer tune-up' and 'planer tune-up' - you should get some good hits. I would:

take it outside
attack the surfaces with kero and wetndry (messy but fast) 'bout 120 grit
clean and polish with any old wax
Align the infeed with the outfeed by shimming the outfeed where it slides. Buy a cheap set of feelerguages from bunnies for shims. usually you'll need about 1/3 the error at the end of the table for the shim - 1mm error, 0.3mm shim.
Check that the infeed table is parallell with the outfeed table - use a dial guage
Check that the cutter head is parallell with the outfeed table - - use a dial guage
sharpen the blades
Install all blades and tighten them up
One at a time, set them up to be at the same height as the outfeed table, or a whisker higher. You can do this with a piece of wood held on the outfeed table and extendoing out over the cutter. Rotate the cutter and it should just lift your piece of wood, like a couple of thou.
Check tighten everything, re-check cutters
try it out

TassieKiwi: Right on!

The above post is exactly what you need to do.

One more trick that I just remembered: to check the height of the knives
you can place a small stick of hardwood on the outfeed table, just over the cutterhead. Rotate the cutterheas towards the infeed table, the knives should pick up your little stick and move it along exactly 4mm.

This helps if you don't have a dial indicator

Greg

And another thing:

Make sure that the guard moves very freely-oil the heck out of the pivot point. I have seen these 'pork chop' guards fail to spring back to the safe position. I even have the (thankfully small) scars to show for it.

Originally Posted by meerkat

hi Iain,

whats the traditional wax is that the brand or the type of wax ?

I've tried finding the johnsons but no luck.

Andrew

I suggest you quickly read this link, grovel profusely and you may just get to stay here..........
http://www.ubeaut.com.au/ubhome.htm

Extracted at great expense from "Best of Best" section - silverglide http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=14620

Cheers

How'd ya go Teejay?