Thread: Left vs Right tilt

I think this is written for people who aren't skilled enough to set their machines accurately

Bit of an inflammatory statement there, Speedy.

Mine is set with a slight run out because I find that with it set exactly parallel (and yes, I do think I'm competent to set it accurately) then work tends to rub on the splitter and make it harder to push through. The splitter is aligned with the right side of the kerf so that it stops the back of the blade from contacting the cut edge as it exits the rear of the blade. I didn't read this in a book, I found it through trial and error when setting up the saw.

Perhaps you get away with it because your splitter or riving knife is centred in the kerf?

Originally Posted by speedy

I disagree, I have always set my fence exactly parallel to the blade. Often the books will say to set the fence with a slight runout away from the blade, I think this is written for people who aren't skilled enough to set their machines accurately, and by having the runout there is less chance of kick back and therefore less chance of the writer being sued.

I had my fence set exactly parallel with the blade using a dial gauge. Wasn't long before I dialed in a little runout.

Don't ever see myself using the fence on the left hand side.

So, basically, the arguments for left or fight tilt depend on fence vs sliding table, handedness of the operator and personal opinion.

the arguments for left or fight tilt

Bit Freudian there, mate

I'd say it comes down to personal opinion only.

Originally Posted by silentC

Perhaps you get away with it because your splitter or riving knife is centred in the kerf?

I don't use a splitter or riving knife, the're to much trouble.

'nuff said...

Originally Posted by speedy

I don't use a splitter or riving knife, the're to much trouble.

So what do you do when ripping say something like African Mahogany (khaya) which seems to store a lot of tension, and it pinches the blade because you don't have a splitter or riving knife?

.....or maybe that hasn't happened to you yet

Originally Posted by martrix

So what do you do when ripping say something like African Mahogany (khaya) which seems to store a lot of tension, and it pinches the blade because you don't have a splitter or riving knife?

.....or maybe that hasn't happened to you yet

Very simple I use a small wedge.

Originally Posted by speedy

Very simple I use a small wedge.

I have a wedge sitting on top of my guard too for the same purpose, after the riving knife.

So you have one hand holding the timber which is pinching the blade while the other is tapping in a wedge whilst leaning over a spinning blade with no guard?

How do you get the wedge in there while you're running the board through the saw?

Sorry mate, but I think we can disregard your remarks about the fence runout because what you are doing is well outside the accepted wisdom. Not that there's anything wrong with that if it works for you and you still have all your fingers.

Sorry Guys I'm giving you a bit of a wind up, just felt a little naughty.

Yes I do set up my fence parallel, and yes, I don't have the splitter and guard on for normal every day use, because on the TS the design is poor and I use a dado blade a lot which means I would be spending half the day removing and fitting the splitter and guard. I would like to fit a riving knife if I can find or design a good one. And as for ripping difficult timber if I hear the saw start to labour I shut the machine down and remove the timber, refit the splitter and then continue ripping the timber, and if it binds on the splitter I will use a small wedge to relieve the binding.

Originally Posted by speedy

fitting the splitter and guard. I would like to fit a riving knife if I can find or design a good one.

sorry about dragging up an old thread - whats the diff between a riving knife and a splitter ? I thought they were the same thing.... ?? <confused>

A riving knife is attached to the blade arbor mount and travels up and down as the blade height is adjusted. It has a curved shaped so that it minimises the gap behind the blade.

A splitter is attached to the blade carriage assembly - it tilts as the blade tilts but it doesn't travel up or down as blade height is adjusted. It may also be curved, although some are straight, but it doesn't sit as close to the blade and is further from it the lower the blade height. A splitter may also be attached to the throat plate or zero-clearance insert.