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27th November 2005, 09:57 PM #1
A little help from the sparkies here
My lathe has finally shown up. Now I've got to change the wiring for Aus power. In the manual the it says to hook the 240 wires to R/L1 and S/L2 terminals. Problem for me is which terminal do I hook the live wire to, R/L1 or S/L2. In NA it's easy. You have two live 120 volt wires where each is hooked up to R/L1 and S/L2. But here you have one 240 volt live wire and a neutral. Or does it matter which I hook the live wire up to (my guess is it does matter, hence the asking first before I attempt to fry my $1400 inverter).
If it matter it's a Yaskawa J7 inverter.
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27th November 2005, 10:50 PM #2
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27th November 2005, 10:55 PM #3
Hmmm. but first a disclaimer.
In QLD it is illegal to do any electrical work witout a licence. And any information given is taken purely at your own risk. best to get a sparky if you can.
That said
In australia our neutral is bonded to the earth at many points in the supply system and our actives are measured at a nominay 230 volts in relation to that.
however
in the appliance both active & neutral "wires" are considered live and should be insulated and segrigated with that understanding.
many items the active and neutral are arbitarliy nominated.
some things determine the active conductor. If one wire is switched that is the active. if ther is a fuse or breaker in one line only that is the active.
If there is a switch in one line and a fuse in the other some yanky bastard is trying to kill you. our standards forbid this.
There should be no switches or overload eliments in the neutral line unless they are linked to a similar eliment in the active line.
If the item has a double pole isolation switch and a double pole breaker the polarity probably dont matter much.
one caution..I would be getting the item examined with relation to as3100 ( .....general requirements for electrical equipment.....) as many practices common in the US/ Canada are strictly verboten here.
remember 240 is twice as angry as 120 therfore bites 4 times as hard.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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27th November 2005, 11:05 PM #4
So it's seems that the answer is:
Don't be a tight asre. Pay a sparkie to do the job for you.
You'll also be buying peace of mind.
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27th November 2005, 11:06 PM #5Originally Posted by soundman
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27th November 2005, 11:08 PM #6Originally Posted by bitingmidge
You've been spying on me!
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27th November 2005, 11:38 PM #7
The short version, L1 should be active/red, L2 should be connected to neutral/black. If there's an earthing point in the box, make sure that the connector/screw does only that job, not a fixing screw or anything else. Earth only. Anything else, soundman has hooked you up pretty well.
Buuut, this is a big ticket item so why save a few bucks and risk frying it or you when you get a sparky to do it for you, and let them worry about frying it.
Schtoo, self confessed dumb electrician...
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27th November 2005, 11:40 PM #8Senior Member
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I'd hook the active to L1 because that sounds the best. It is illegal to mess with any fixed wiring here, I think there is some leway with anything with a plug on it. Have you got a safety switch (earth leakage)?
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28th November 2005, 03:58 AM #9
The leeway is that you can change your own plugs, that's it.
That, and whatever plugs in must be 'portable'.
You know those big coal diggers for power stations?
Portable. They do plug in...
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28th November 2005, 08:21 AM #10Originally Posted by bitingmidge
Where are you guys getting sparkies for reasonable money? None of the last
four blokes I called want to come out for a two hour job.
Greg
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28th November 2005, 10:09 AM #11Originally Posted by SchtooHave a nice day - Cheers