Thread: A little tip on using the no.80 scraper

The 212 is used to level inlays

Of course it is. Do you have those days when you are thinking neither inside nor outside the box?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Is using an HNT Gordon finishing plane in scraper mode (ie with blade reversed) the same as what is being discussed? (Not that I've tried yet, but always interested in learning, and I want to learn how to use inlays as well - I bought some at the wood show 2 years ago, that still haven't been used because I'm not sure how to go about it).

I don't know how well the HNT works with a backwards blade, but I would suspect that it's comparing apples and kiwifruits.

LV makes a scraper insert for a regular bench plane, but realized that a proper scraper plane is a superior animal, simply because it's the right tool for the job. Witness the lovely thing they created.

If you need to use a scraping 'thing' rarely, then stick with the HNT.

If you use it a little more often, or need some very fine control over what cut you get and the ability to go from rank scraping to very delicate scraping, then a cabinet scraper (#80 or similar) or a plane (like my thing) is the preffered weapon of choice. Slip in a toothed blade and you can prep for veneer too.



It's said that you can also joint edges with a block plane, but 24"+ of jointer plane does it so much easier and with less fooling around.

I don't know how well the HNT works with a backwards blade, but I would suspect that it's comparing apples and kiwifruits.

Schtoo

Of all my scraping planes (#112, 2 x #80), the HNT Gordon Smoother (reversed) works the best. BUT - of course there is a but - nothing destroys a fine edge on a blade like a scraping action does. When you use the HNT Gordon like this, you will need to re-hone the blade. If you depend on the plane for use as a smoother, you better have an extra blade on hand.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Cheers Derek - good to know!

(I have one of his 'normal' blades, and a cryogenic one. Guess I'll keep the cryogenic one for the majority of my use (planing), and perhaps dedicate the other to scraping (once I work out when that is the best option!)

Thanks Mike, Steve, Derek, Alf.

I'm sorry. Bit rude of me. Just haven't had a chance to keep up with the thread.

I still owe you a favour too Steve. I mustn't forget.

Lovely plane Schtoo. Find it hard to show anything myself after seeing yours. But I'll get that record 43 modification up on screen soon. Probably on the week end.

The local Library got me a copy David Finck"s book " Making & Mastering Wood Planes " One of the better book that I have read.
Not interested in building one yet just using it.
Only 25% of the book is on building planes the rest is on using them & the tools to build one.
The last chapter is on preparing & using scrapers.
He sharpens his # 80 scraper at 90 degrees instead of the conventioal 45. he says it is easier to sharpen at 90 and you get 2 edges ( four if you do both ends ) So I tried one end as per his instructions. I got the finest shavings curling out of the tool. Try one end & see.
The LV scrarer blade will fit in the 80. it appears to be a little thicker. I don't have a mike to measure it.
I Have a hong kong smooth plane from LV and I just picked up a spare blade to try it as a scraper. The blade is bedded at 60 degrees

Paul

Hi Paul.

I don't know much about the LV gear.

I've got that book too. Thats where I must have read it.

I agree, a 90 degree sharpening just like a card seems to work fine too. Makes sense too.

I just flip the blade to another burnished edge when one bluntens. Can't really do that with a 45 degree edge. But it be interesting to know where the idea came from in the first place. Why 45 degrees ?

Jake

At 45 degrees you can turn a very large burr very easily. Weaker edge and all that.

I use it on that plane, and it allows me to get really rank shavings if that's what I need.

But if I don't turn a burr, then I can get very delicate shavings, like tissue, with very little effort. I think that the 45* is supposed to be easier to get and maintain often than a 90* edge is, but I don't know anything.

I also use a 45 degree angle with no burr on the smaller scraper blades I use all the time. They cost 30c each, and come with one edge already. File another 45 on the other edge, hone it on a piece of angle iron sitting on the stone and I am done. Usually have a few lined up, hone them all in about 5 minutes, and back at it. Very controllable and easy.

On the 'proper' scrapers I have, I do turn burrs. But they are never as consistant as the 45*/no burr jobbies.