Thread: A little tip on using the no.80 scraper

Hey Jake, nice shavings from the scraper.

Thanks for the tip. I do use the 80 a bit. Never thought of a dowel. Pretty simple. I like simple.

Take care, Mike

Thanks Mike. How do you find using the tool ? have the same problem ?

I may be just clumbsy with it. I seem to only make it work as long as I lift off right on the edge... even then, I don't always pull it off....so, I often conceed to avoiding going off edge altogether. Just, stop before, then reverse direction and come in from the other side....if that makes sense.

Be nice to here what another thinks, if you get the chance. I might be imagining the improvement

Hi Jake, my methods, warped as they are, generally have me scraping just prior to sawing to final lengths. Which means most of the time I don't worry about the very edge that much.

In a perfect world, that would suffice. But it seems once in a while I discover a small ding from moving the workpieces are and need to scrape. When that damage goes to the end of the board, chances are I use the #112. I do tend to use the #80 in the field of a board when I have more scraping than would be comfortable with a card scraper, but not so much the big gun needs pulled out.

But, I do run it off the ends of an otherwise finished board at times. I have placed my thumbs on the curve in the casting where the handles join. Always done it like that. This too supplies enough pressure far enough back. But man, the thumbs can get sore if it is more than a pass or two.

That's why I like the dowel idea. Seem it would save the thumbs from being curved all round.

Take care, Mike

Thanks Mike. Seems aussies arn't so interested in these tools .... ?

Hi Jake, my methods, warped as they are, generally have me scraping just prior to sawing to final lengths. Which means most of the time I don't worry about the very edge that much.
I think thats a good idea. I try to remember to do that. However, sometimes I find myself with the work already clamped, with it already cut to length, for working the edge (or whatever) with another tool,,,,,and think 'well, I might as well scrape it clean while its clamped now...uno

In a perfect world, that would suffice. But it seems once in a while I discover a small ding from moving the workpieces are and need to scrape. When that damage goes to the end of the board, chances are I use the #112. I do tend to use the #80 in the field of a board when I have more scraping than would be comfortable with a card scraper, but not so much the big gun needs pulled out.
I haven't got a #112. I've heard it a very good tool. I can see how it wouldn't have that same edge problem the #80 has.

But, I do run it off the ends of an otherwise finished board at times. I have placed my thumbs on the curve in the casting where the handles join. Always done it like that. This too supplies enough pressure far enough back. But man, the thumbs can get sore if it is more than a pass or two.
Hurts my fingers there too.

Whats your take on the difference between thick and thin scraper blades. Uno, how thin card ones flex. They seem more forgiving. Can set them easier. But thick ones must have fine setting or else they don't work. Chatter. Is this why the #112 is good ? ...does it have a fine depth adjuster, so you can creep up on that difficult to find setting ?

Its just that I've found setting a thick scraper in a wooden wedged plane can be a difficult task.

I'm guessing that not many Aussies have these things.


If the #112 is the plane, then with a little setup it's a dream to use. I made one of my own, and I used for the first time in anger not long ago after wondering why I made it for about a year.

Will take shavings the full length of a board, no trouble.

Just remember to lift on the return.

I'm finding this interesting, as there is little discussion about scrapers apart from the handheld, card type. It does seem strange there is no position for thumbs, cast into the body to start with, but then again, Krenov's design for wooden bodied planes opted for no distinct handholds. He reckoned that determined how everyone should hold the thing, and every body is different, as is the specific job.
Jake, your experience with scrapers of different thicknesses is grist for the mill as applied to that buckhorn scraper I just made, as you said in that post.
And Schtoo, I'd love to see some photos of the beast you made, it sounds great!

Cheers,

Andy, will this do?



No closer detail pics, because there is a little thumbscrew in there that would contraviene a patent from our favorite Canadian company.


Never fear, I have plans for something better soon enough, and no pesky (and hard to tweak) screws to worry about.

Body is maple, handles are Japanese elm, frog and cap are oak. Single screw to adjust tilt, and the *censored* part. :eek:

Just wish it was a bit wider now that I have used it. If I had known how little I would use it, I'd have just made a regular cabinet scraper and been done with it.

Nice one, Schtoo!

Love the looks of that. Ok, you say you've used it--but don't say how well it works...

Take care, Mike

Originally Posted by apricotripper

Whats your take on the difference between thick and thin scraper blades. Uno, how thin card ones flex. They seem more forgiving. Can set them easier. But thick ones must have fine setting or else they don't work. Chatter. Is this why the #112 is good ? ...does it have a fine depth adjuster, so you can creep up on that difficult to find setting ?

Its just that I've found setting a thick scraper in a wooden wedged plane can be a difficult task.

I like thin cards for general use. Do get hot faster, though. I use moderately thick ones in the LV holder for heavier work in localized areas. From there I use the #80 over longer areas which need attention because it's easier to keep the scraper blade at the right angle for me when it's held.

Yep, the #112 I have is the LN version. Real thick blade. For large areas it can really take off wood. No chatter. Had LV come out with theirs I would have bought it. I like the LV design because one can still use a thin blade and bow it with the adjustment knob. As well, one can use a thick blade for real heavy work.

I'm going to be doing some inlay work [stringing] late this year and will probably use that as an excuse to pick up the little LN #212. I've always wanted the little bugger, but never could justify it sitting on the shelf for too much time.

I have a Stanley #112 which is used with a thicker LN blade. It can produce really fine shavings, but it is much harder to set up than a #80.

My concern about the #80, of which I have 2, is that the thinnish blade is bowed. I have the same concern when pushing a cardscraper - that is, the bowed blade will tend to carve a shallow recess (groove is too strong a word) that can be seen in the finish against the light. As a result, of all scraping methods, In prefer pulling a cardscraper, since this keeps the blade straight.

Of course, the #112 uses a straight edge, hence I prefer it (and its finickiness) over the #80 (mostly used for cleaning glue lines). The BEST scraping plane I have is a HNT Gordon Smoother with the blade reversed (providing a scraping angle of 90 degrees).

Jake, as usual I love your creativity. You are always a breath of fresh air.

And Schtoo, I just love your scraper plane. Your ingenuity has been an inspiration for all of us when it comes to building tools.

Lastly Mike, how is the #212 used in stringing? I would have thought that a router plane (e.g. with something like the scraper/stringing blade I made from a hex key) would be more relevant?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,

The 212 is used to level inlays, in particular smaller inlays. I have used a 212 for leveling stringing before in another's shop and because one can use it one handed, it works great--for the small stuff.

I'll use a scratch-stock to cut in the groove for the stringing.

I've saved up some Holly which I'll use for the actual stringing. Never used it before, but it sure is white!

Take care, Mike

Good tip Jake!

Pretty soon you'll be drawing straing lines too

Mike, it works amazingly well. When set a little coarse, it takes off shavings like a jack plane. Just cuts them off as nice as you please.

Set it finer, and it takes off just a tad and just as nice as if it was done by hand. Just a little slow since the blade is only 2" wide. I think you could easily push it to 3" wide and not have much trouble. When/if I need that extra width, or find I use this plane more often, I'll make it use a wider blade, plus simplify some parts, alter others.


Derek, methinks you are going a tad overboard with that comment. Like being a 'tad' on fire...

Dammit, Jake, you must spend so much time thinking outside the box you're never in it! Gonna give that one a go.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

I remember reading somewhere a new tool, based on the no.80, that claimed to fix that problem.

Probably the LV #80. It pretty much does too, partically with a lower handle position (iirc) but mainly with a longer sole.

It's interesting that there doesn't seem to be much Aussie interest - I'd always assumed those baulks of iron you blokes call wood would scrape well. Am I way off the mark?

Cheers, Alf